Aconcagua Ameghino and Upper Guanacos Route with Porters

Tour Description

 Only recently opened, the Ameghino & Upper Guanacos route provides a pristine alternative to the heavily traveled Normal route by way of the Horcones Valley, and offers exceptionally fine views of nearby peaks and glaciers. It follows the Vacas Valley in three days of superb trekking to the Plaza Argentina base camp (4,200m /13,944 ft). After reaching High Camp 1 we pass through the Ameghino saddle--a very easy and beautiful traverse--to High Camp 2 (High Camp 3 of the old Guanacos route), and on to High Camp 3 (Piedras Blancas), from where the summit bid is made.
This is a safe, comfortable, and stunningly beautiful ascent, offering the highest rate of success of all the Aconcagua routes. In addition, climbers benefit from the medical, porter, and daily mule service offered by the Plaza Argentina base camp. For all these reasons, it has been Aconcagua Express & KL Adventure’s preferred route since the Park authorities closed the Guanacos route.
The effectiveness of our climbing plan has been proved through decades of experience, and is the key to success. An important element of this plan involves our ‘double carry’ strategy between camps, allowing climbers to achieve an optimal acclimatization. Together with the slow steady pace of our guide and the proper use of the rest step, the summit gets closer and closer.
Please take a look at our training program. By following this program you will be assured of arriving ready to climb the Aconcagua, thus ensuring a safe, memorable, enjoyable, and above all successful ascent, whether this be a unique mountaineering goal or part of your quest for the Seven Summits.

                          To see a topographic map click here

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Day by day Itinerary

Day 1 Mendoza. You will be picked up at Plumerillos Airport in Mendoza and transferred to our Hotel.  After meeting the guides and other members of the group, we’ll make an equipment and gear check, and have a power point presentation on the expedition. 

Hotel / Elevation 761 m (2,497 ft)

Day 2 Mendoza - Penitentes. Before leaving Mendoza, we’ll visit the Aconcagua Provincial Park’s permit office to obtain our mandatory, individual climbing permits.  Then we’ll drive towards the Park, stopping for lunch in Uspallata.  We’ll continue our journey west to the village of Penitentes, situated at the entrance to the Vacas Valley, which gives access to our route. Overnight in Penitentes.

Transfer distance 190 km – 118 miles / Transfer time 2 1/4 hours / Hotel Penitentes / Elevation Min 761 m (2,497 ft) -  Max 2,580m – 8,464 ft

Day 3 Penitentes – Pampa de Leña. The Aconcagua Express vehicles transfer us to the area known as Punta de Vacas, site of an important Argentinean Army post, beside the Vacas River.  Here we begin our trek towards the base of Aconcagua through the Vacas Valley, a greener and less busy trail than the Normal route and wonderfully scenic. After four to five hours we reach our first camp at Pampa de Leña, a picturesque spot surrounded by rocky walls (2,800m / 9,330ft). Here we’ll join our arrieros (mule drivers) for a delicious barbecue.

Trekking Time – 4-5 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 2,580m (8,464 ft) -  Max 2,800m (9,186 ft) 

Day 4 Pampa de Leña – Casa de Piedra. We continue trekking up the Vacas Valley for six to seven hours, reaching Casa de Piedra camp, a green strip of land on the eastern side of the huge Vacas Valley, situated at 3,200m (10,665 ft). We’ll get an excellent view here through the Relinchos Pass toward the Polacos Glacier.

Trekking Time – 6-7 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 2,800m (9,186 ft)  -  Max 3,200m (10,665 ft)

Day 5 Casa de Piedra - Plaza Argentina. Leaving the Vacas Valley behind us, we begin to climb up the steep, narrow and marvelously scenic Relinchos Valley to our base camp at Plaza Argentina, situated at 4,200m (14,000 ft). This is a demanding seven-hour day where we climb 1,000 vertical meters (3,280 ft) and cross the Relincho creek, a stream which can carry a lot of water in the summer and must be forded with care. Along the last stretch of this track we get a magnificent view of Aconcagua and its north-eastern neighbour, Mt. Ameguino (5,900m / 10,356 ft). Our chef awaits us with hot drinks and a delicious dinner.  At Plaza Argentina Park Rangers are present and medical services are available.

Trekking Time – 7 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 3,200m (10,665 ft) - Max 4,200m (14,000 ft)

Day 6 Plaza Argentina base camp. Today is a rest day, essential for an optimal acclimatization.  We’ll rest in camp and drink plenty of liquids, allowing our bodies to adapt well to the altitude in readiness for the high camps and summit day.

Tent / Elevation – 4,200m (14,000 ft)

Day 7  Plaza Argentina – High Camp I - Plaza Argentina. Without the help of our arrieros (mule drivers) and the mules, we’ll make our first day of portage, carrying light loads of personal and common gear up to what will be our high Camp I, situated at 4,900m (16,076 ft). We’ll then return to Plaza Argentina. It is essential to take advantage of the comfort of our base camp at this point so as to achieve a slow, safe, and optimal acclimatization.

Trekking Time – 4 to 6 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,200m (14,000 ft) - Max 4,900m (16,076 ft)

Day 8 Plaza Argentina base camp. Today is a rest day in base camp.  We’ll take it easy around camp and drink plenty of liquids.

Tent / Elevation – 4,200m (14,000 ft)

Day 9 Plaza Argentina base camp – High Camp I. Today we climb with our remaining gear for four to six hours, gaining 700 meters (2,296 ft), to reach high Camp I. From this point we’ll leave base camp behind us and begin our ascent to the summit.  All unnecessary equipment will be left at Plaza Argentina to be carried out by the mules.

Trekking Time – 4-6 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,200m (14,000 ft) - Max 4,900m (16,076 ft)

Day 10 High Camp I – High Camp II - High Camp I. Today we begin our second day of portage, taking loads to High Camp II  (5,500m / 18,000 ft). We’ll make the connection with the Upper Guanacos route by going through the Ameghino pass, making a gentle traverse which will take us to Camp 3 of the Guanacos route. In the afternoon we return to High Camp 1.

Trekking Time –  / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,900m (16,076 ft) – Max 5,500m (18,044 ft)

Day 11 High Camp 1 – High Camp II. Today we climb with the rest of our gear to establish High Camp II (Guanacos route Camp III).

Trekking Time –  / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,900m (16,076 ft) – Max 5,500m (18,044 ft)

Day 12 High Camp II. Today is a rest and acclimatization day. We have observed that taking this day to rest has brought excellent results, ensuring that climbers are much stronger higher up on the mountain and prepared for summit day.

Tent / Elevation – 5,500m (18,044 ft)

Day 13 High Camp II – Piedras Blancas - High Camp II. We make a relatively light portage/acclimatization hike to our next high camp, Piedras Blancas, also known as Colera, or Camp IV, located at 6,000m (19,600 ft).  We return to Camp II for the night.

Trekking Time – 3 to 5 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 5,500m (18,044 ft) - Max 6,000m (19,600 ft)

Day 14 High Camp II. We take a rest day here in the Piedras Blancas camp to prepare ourselves for the summit push.

Elevation – 5,500m (18,044 ft)

Day 15 High Camp II - Piedras Blancas. We climb from High Camp II, at 5,500m (18,044 ft) to Piedras Blancas at 6,000m (19,600 ft). From Piedras Blancas we can reach the summit in one day.

Trekking Time –  / Tent / Elevation – Min 5,500m (18,044 ft) - Max 6,000m (19,600 ft)

Days 16, 17 & 18 Piedras Blancas - Summit. From Piedras Blancas we are now ready to attempt the summit. We wait for the best climatic conditions for our final ascent. Reaching the top, we’ll admire the magnificent views and takes the photos which will record this momentous achievement. We’ll return, weary, to Piedras Blancas.

Trekking Time – 12 to 14 hours/ Tent / Elevation – Min 6,000m (19,600 ft) - Max 6,959m (22,834 ft)

Day 19 Piedras Blancas - Plaza de Mulas. We come down from Piedras Blancas following the normal route to the Plaza de Mulas Camp, located at 4,200m (13,779 ft), where our Aconcagua Express chef awaits us with a delicious dinner that will restore our energy. This base camp has showers, satellite telephone, and an exquisite menu especially prepared for our expedition.

Trekking Time – 4 to 5 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,300m (14,107 ft) - Max 6,000m (19,600 ft)

Day 20 Plaza de Mulas – Mendoza. From Plaza de Mulas, our arrieros (mule drivers) and the mules will help us carry out our gear and equipment. Today is a fairly gentle six to seven- hour hike through Playa Ancha and down the Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes. At the Park Ranger’s Station, our vehicles will be waiting to take us back to Mendoza. Following a good night’s rest, the Aconcagua Ameghino & UPPER Guanacos Route with Porters Expedition comes to an end! Other expedition members may choose to remain in Mendoza to visit this beautiful city and enjoy superb Argentinean cuisine.

Trekking Time –  / Transfer distance 190 km – 118 miles / Transfer time 2 1/4 hours / Hotel / Elevation – Min 761 m (2,497 ft) - Max 4,300m (14,107 ft) 

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Tour Details

Duration	20 days
Difficulty	Excellent Physical Shape
Departures	KLE002-01 November 28, 2010 – December 17, 2010 KLE002-02 December 03, 2010 – December 22, 2010 KLE002-03 December 19, 2010 – January 07, 2011 KLE002-04 December 26, 2010 – January 14, 2011 KLE002-05 January 09, 2011 – January 28, 2011 KLE002-06 January 16, 2011 – February 04, 2011 KLE002-07 January 23, 2011 – February 11, 2011 KLE002-08 January 30, 2011 – February 18, 2011
Expedition cost	US $ 3.500 per person minimum 6 clients.
Personal Porter	US $ 555 per person minimum 2 clients.
Hotel single supplement	US $ 500 per person
Reservation cost	US $ 700
Balance due	75 days prior departure
Space available	12 climbers

 

Service includes

• Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
• Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-3.
• Porter for group gear (tents) during the entire expedition.
• Mules for individual gear to base camp and return with a maximum of 20 kg. per person.
• High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain Hardware and Marmot tents, isolate mattress, high camp stoves & Fuel.
• First aid kit, hyperbaric chamber, oxygen bottles, oximeter, including O2 at our high camps.
• Satellite phone at base camp on a per minute payment basis.
• VHF 2 mt & BLU HF radio communication equipment.
• Full base camp set up dining tent, chair, tables, etc..
• All meals during the expedition.
• Permanently available hot drinks and biscuits at base camp tent.
• Two hotel nights in Mendoza, double occupancy with breakfast, at Hyatt or NH Hotel.
• One hotel night in Penitentes, double occupancy with half pension.
• Private transportation included airport pick-up.
• Assistance at Mendoza airport.
• All local organization and supervision by KL Adventure & Aconcagua Express Staff.
• The Aconcagua, “Summit of America” book, by Mauricio Fernandez.

Service does not include 

• All personal climbing equipment gear.
• Aconcagua climbing permit fee.
• Porter for personal gear, except for those who have purchased this service.
• Any cost involved in an early or late departure.
• Meals in Mendoza.
• Any drinks (soda, beer or wine) in Mendoza.
• Airport drop off.
• Cancellation, accident and rescue insurance.
• Cash for extra expenses.
• Gratuities.
• Any other service not listed above.

Important

• All itineraries are subject to change due to changes in the weather, individual’s acclimatization rates and the guide’s preferences.
• A Private Porter service, to be shared between two expedition members carrying 10kg each, is available upon request at an additional cost.
• Any departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 6 persons.                                              

Once you get registered, we will send you :

• A detailed list of all the equipment you need.

 Aconcagua short equipment list :

-Non detailed version (this is only for “packing your bags”)
-Items marked with ** are available for rent.  Items marked with * are available for purchase.

Head:

•  **Ski Goggles
•  *Light weight Balaclava
•  *Warm fleece or wool hat
•  *Glacier glasses
•  *Extra pair of sunglasses (these don’t need to be glacier glasses)
• Hat or cap with neck protection for sun on the approach days
• High U.V. Buff (Optional)
• Neoprene face mask

Hands:

• Fleece liners
• Gore-Tex ski gloves
• **Mittens

 Upper Body:

• (2) Polypropylene top- one medium weight and one expedition weight. 
• (2) Fleece jackets or lightweight synthetic insulated jacket.
• (1) If you opt to only use one of the above jackets then you need an insulated vest.
• Ultralight wind jacket (Optional) 
• Gore-Tex parka
• **(1)Expedition Down Parka with down hood.
• Long sleeve lightweight cotton type shirt for the hike in.

 Lower Body:

• (2)-Polypropylene bottom one lightweight and one expedition weight.
• (1)-One pair of schoeler or nylon pants.
• **Insulated over pants or fleece pants with full side zips
• Lightweight Gore-Tex pants with full side zips

 Feet:

• 2 pair of socks for the approach.
• 3 pair of sock combinations (in additition to above)
• Gaiters
• **Down or synthetic booties (optional)
• **Double plastic boots
• Light weight hiking boots, trekking shoes or sneakers
• Sandals or neoprene booties.

 Sleeping:

• **Down or synthetic rated –10 degrees F/ -26 degrees C
• Compression sack for sleeping bag
• Thermarest pad with repair kit

 Backpacks and other bags:

• **Internal frame Backpack
• *Day pack
• Some medium and large stuff sacks
• 3 heavy-duty plastic bags
• **1 large and 1 extra large duffel bags
• An assortment of Ziploc bags.

 Miscellaneous:

• **Trekking poles or ski poles (MANDATORY)
• Bandanna (for sun protection and cleaning glasses etc.)
• Hand warmers (purchased in most outdoor stores)
• Ear plugs (for those windy nights or snoring tent mates)
• Potable aqua (1 bottle)
• (2) Mole foam made by 3M (for treating blisters) (MANDATORY)
• 1 roll of athletic tape (mandatory)
• Knife with built in scissors for cutting mole foam/skin.
• Sunscreen SPF 30 or higher. Consider bringing Zinc oxide if you burn easily.
• Head lamp with extra batteries
• Toiletry items (toothbrush/toothpaste, baby wipes (very usefull), tampons
• 2 Lip balms (chapstick with SPF)
• 2 water bottles (two liters capacity) and 1 one-liter thermos.  
• Many people like to have a separate wide mouth bottle only for peeing in. This bottle should be clearly labeled!
• Cup, bowl and spoon.

 Climbing:

• Climbing seat harness (Polish Glacier only)
• 1 Locking Carabiner  (Polish Glacier only)
• **Ice axe and leash 60-70 cm
• **Crampons

 Food:

• 2-3 pounds total and include items you know will look tasty if feeling less than 100% and that you have experimented with in training. Popular choices may include a variety of certain energy bars, energy gels, candies, nuts, dried fruits, rice crispy treats, brownies etc...

 Medical:

• Ibuprofen, Motrin or Advil
• Asperin
• Blister kit (athletic tape, mole foam, and 5-6 bandaids)

 Optional Items:

• Camera, Paperback book, Pee funnel (for women only), Music

Physical conditioning for your trip with KL Adventure

Whether your trip involves trekking, mountaineering, or technical climbing, your training program should involve the following:

• Alpine-specific training (via hiking with a pack and specific skills development pertaining to your trip)
• Strength training (via free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines)
• Cardiovascular training (via spinal-loading aerobic training)

Alpine specific training - During your training, progressively ramp up your speed, duration (time or mileage), and pack weight of weekly training hikes to give you alpine-specific conditioning that cannot be matched by any other type of training. Hike steep outdoor trails, gradually increasing your pack weight with each outing until you are at your target trip pack weight. A reasonable target for multi-day trips would be to ascend 3,500 feet in a 2-2.5 hour period, or roughly 1,750 vertical feet in an hour, with your target trip pack weight. In early season, you might start out with a 15# pack on hikes that gain up to 1,500’ elevation over 6-8 miles round trip; each hike try increasing the total elevation gain, distance, and/or speed, then begin adding several pounds per trip until you are comfortable with your target trip pack weight. When you can gain 3,500 feet with your target pack weight, start to decrease rest breaks and increase speed.  Include overnight trips in your training regimen to get accustomed to successive days of sustained work with little to no recovery time.

Strength training - Training with free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines will help you build overall strength, particularly in the core (lower back and abdominals), upper back, and legs. Developing strength in your upper back and shoulders will help you with such tasks as carrying a pack and using ice axe, ice tools or trekking poles effectively.  The calves, hips, quads, hamstrings and glutes are all involved in ascending and descending alpine routes, and strength endurance is required in all areas of the legs and hips.  Technical climbing will require a solid foundation in upper body strength training as well. Training primarily with free weights will give you the functional, alpine-specific strength that will help you most in the mountains. In early phases of strength conditioning, focus on building a foundation for harder workouts, starting with 2-3 sets of each exercise for 8-10 repetitions. As you continue to train, you will shift focus to building strength through lower repetitions (5-8) to build maximum strength. Finally for the last 4-6 weeks before your trip start increasing the repetitions to build strength endurance and mental and physical stamina; each phase varies the weight used, repetitions completed, number of sets, and rest interval.  Most important in strength training is to be sure you maintain proper form at all times in order to prevent injury or strain.

Cardiovascular training – Activities you can add several times per week to supplement your alpine-specific pack carrying training include spinal-loading exercises such as trail running, walking on an inclined treadmill, doing stair stepping or stepmill training, working on an elliptical machine, or walking up and down hills or stairs with a weighted pack.  In early season, include at least 3-4 sessions of 30-45 minutes of sustained activity at a moderate intensity, and gradually build to 4-5 aerobic sessions of sustained effort for an hour or more as you approach your trip. If you will be at high altitude for portions of your trip, include interval training in your weekly program. To do this, find a steep hill or sets of stairs that will allow you to climb steadily for several minutes. Push as hard as you can while you go up, then recover coming down, and repeat for anywhere from 30-45 minutes.  For hill walks, add weight to your pack on a regular basis until you can carry slightly more than your target pack weight (referred to as over-weight training) the whole time. Participate in as many hikes or climbs that take you above 8,000’ as you possibly can, in order to learn how your body responds to high altitude.

This training information brought to you by KL Adventure conditioning partner, Body Results. For more conditioning information, products and services and special pricing for KLA’s clients go to www.bodyresults.com/kla

Code	From	To	Status	Price
Aconcagua Ameghino & Upper Guanacos with porters 20 Days
KLE001-01	Sunday, November 28, 2010	Friday, December 17, 2010	available	3,8003,500
KLE001-02	Friday, December 03, 2010	Wednesday, December 22, 2010	available	3,8003,500
KLE001-03	Sunday, December 19, 2010	Friday, January 07, 2011	available	3,8003,500
KLE001-04	Sunday, December 26, 2010	Friday, January 14, 2011	available	3,8003,500
KLE001-05	Sunday, January 09, 2011	Friday, January 28, 2011	available	3,8003,500
KLE001-06	Sunday, January 16, 2011	Friday, February 04, 2011	available	3,8003,500
KLE001-07	Sunday, January 23, 2011	Friday, February 11, 2011	available	3,8003,500
KLE001-08	Sunday, January 30, 2011	Friday, February 18, 2011	available	3,8003,500