Aconcagua and El Plomo Climb with Porters

Aconcagua Normal Route with acclimatization at El Plomo Chile

El Plomo

Tour Description

An expedition to the Aconcagua (6,959m / 22,831 ft), the highest point on the American continent, is made easier and more enjoyable following an acclimatization climb on Cerro El Plomo (5,430m / 17,814 ft), the tallest mountain visible from Santiago. Presenting no technical difficulties, El Plomo offers similar elevation, wind, and temperature conditions to the Aconcagua, but on a smaller scale, and is easily accessed from Chile’s national capital. Known by the Incas as Apu--guardian of the valley-- the three-day climb passes an Inca shrine at 5,140m /16,863 ft where the mummy of a young boy was found in 1954. Stunning views from the summit take in the highest peaks of the main range of the Chilean Andes.
Following a short flight to Mendoza, on the Argentinean side of the Andes, we obtain our mandatory Aconcagua permits and travel 160 km west to the village of Penitentes. The Aconcagua’s Normal route ascends by way of the Horcones Valley--with views of the mountain’s awesome south face--to Confluencia, our first mid-mountain camp. Continuing on through Plaza Francia we’ll reach the busy Plaza de Mulas base camp (4,300m / 14,107 ft). Having attained an elevation of 5,430m / 17,814 ft on El Plomo, our bodies process of acclimatization has been accelerated. As a result, our ascent through the high camps will be faster and our final push to the summit will be less arduous, allowing expedition members to focus on the magnificent experience of reaching the roof of America.

To see an Aconcagua topographic map click here , a Plomo Topographic map, click here.

To order a topographic map : click here

Day by day itinerary

Day 1 Santiago
You will be picked up at Arturo Merino Benitez Airport in Santiago and transferred to our Hotel. Coming in from the airport, the first objective of our expedition, Cerro El Plomo, will be visible as the highest peak on the skyline above Santiago, with its distinctive, helmet-shaped glacier. After settling into our hotel, we’ll meet the guides and other members of the group, make an equipment and gear check, and have a presentation of the expedition.

Hotel / Elevation – 543m / 1,781 ft

Day 2 Santiago - Farellones
In the morning we’ll drive up a spectacular mountain road with views down to Santiago and up into the high Andes, a trip of approximately an hour and a half. Farrellones (2,340m / 7,677 ft) is a picturesque mountain village, from where we’re likely to see Andean condors soaring on thermal updrafts. Farellones’s elevation will allow our bodies to begin the process of acclimatization. We’ll stay overnight at the Hotel La Cornisa.

Transfer distance 36k / 22 miles / Transfer time 1 1/2 hours / Hotel La Cornisa / Elevation Min 543m / 1,781 ft - Max 2,340m / 7,677 ft

Day 3 Farellones – Piedra Numerada
A vehicle will leave us at the Portazuelo del Franciscano (3,500 mts / 11,482 ft), the highest point of the La Parva ski area. From here, we’ll descend into the Cepo Valley, hiking about 3 hours to reach our base camp at Piedra Numerada (3,300 mts / 10,826 ft).

Trekking Time – 3 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 3,300 mts / 10,826 ft - Max 3,500 mts / 11,482 ft

Day 4 Piedra Numerada - La Olla - Piedra Numerada
Today we hike approximately 4 hours to reach La Olla camp (4.000 mt / 13,123 ft), where we’ll enjoy spectacular views of El Plomo’s Iver glacier. We return to Piedra Numerada base camp for the night
Trekking Time – 6 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 3,500 mts / 11,482 ft - Max 4,000m / 13,123 ft

Day 5 Piedra Numerada - La Olla
Today we return to La Olla camp where we’ll spend the night.

Trekking Time – 4 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 3,500 mts / 11,482 ft - Max 4,000m / 13,123 ft

Day 6 La Olla – El Plomo summit - La Olla
Leaving our camp very early in the morning, we’ll take the standard route up El Plomo, following the south-west ridge to the right of the Iver glaciar. We’ll pass the site where in 1954 local arrilleros (animal herders) came across the mummified body of a young boy, left as a ritual offering by early Inca peoples. The mummy is kept at the Museum of Natural History, in Santiago. We’ll cross an icefield to reach the summit ridge. From the summit we’ll have outstanding views of the highest peaks in the central Andes: La Falsa Parva (3,888m / 12 755 ft), La Parva, (4,047m / 13 277 ft), El Pintor, (4,180m / 13 713 ft), and La Leonera (4,954m / 16 253 ft). As we have been gaining altitude slowly, allowing our bodies to acclimatize, our summit day will be very comfortable and easy to achieve in about 8 hours. We’ll return to La Olla camp for the night.

Trekking Time – 12 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 4,000m / 13,123 ft - Max 5,430m / 17,814 ft

Day 7 La Olla – El Pintor - Santiago
On our return to our starting point at La Parva, along the long plateau of Cancha Carrera, we’ll hike up El Pintor (4,000 mt / 13,123 ), an attractive peak of multicoloured rock which gives the mountain its name: The Painter. We’ll return to Santiago in the evening for dinner and a good rest at Hotel Kennedy.

Trekking Time – 5 hours / Hotel / Transfer distance 36k / 22 miles / Transfer time 1 1/2 hours / Elevation - Min 543m / 1,781 ft - Max 4,000m/ 13,123 ft

Day 8 Santiago - Mendoza - Penitentes. We’ll make an early transfer to Santiago’s Arturo Merino Benitez Airport, taking the 50-minute flight over the main chain of the Andes Mountain Range to Mendoza, Argentina. Before leaving Mendoza, we’ll visit the Aconcagua Provincial Park’s permit office to obtain our mandatory, individual climbing permits. Then we’ll drive towards the Park, stopping for lunch in Uspallata. We’ll continue our journey east to the ski village of Penitentes, (2,580m / 8,464 ft), situated at the entrance to the Vacas Valley, which gives access to our route. We’ll stay overnight at the Hotel Ayelen in Penitentes.

Flight 50 minutes / Transfer distance 190 km – 118 miles / Transfer time 4 hours / Hotel Penitentes / Elevation - Min 761 m (2,497 ft) - Max 2,580m – (8,464 ft)

Day 9 Penitentes - Confluencia. After officially entering the Park, we make a three-hour hike up the Horcones Valley, crossing the Horcones River on a bridge built during the making of the film ‘Seven Years in Tibet’. We climb a gentle, steady slope to Confluencia Camp (3,300m / 10,826 ft).

Trekking Time – 3 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 2,580m (8,464 ft) - Max 3,385m (11,103 ft)

Day 10 Confluencia - Plaza de Mulas. We make a seven- to eight-hour hike to Plaza de Mulas base camp (4,300m / 14,107 ft) Our chef will be waiting for us with hot drinks and a delicious dinner. This base camp has showers, satellite telephone, and an exquisite menu especially prepared for our Expedition.

Trekking Time – 7 to 8 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 3,300m (10,826 ft) - Max 4,300m (14,107 ft)

Day 11 Plaza de Mulas. Today we’ll have a rest day relaxing around camp drinking plenty of fluids. Rest and good hydration are the essentials for an optimal acclimatization before continuing on to the rigors of the High Camps and the demands of summit day.

Tent / Elevation - 4,300m (14,107 ft)

Day 12 Plaza de Mulas - Nido de Cóndores - Plaza de Mulas. Leaving our arrieros (mule drivers) and the mules in base camp, we’ll make our first day of portage, carrying light loads of personal and common gear up to Nido de Condores Camp (5,550m / 18,208 ft). Today’s portage—and other days of portage during the expedition—are essential to achieving an optimal acclimatization. Climbing up to higher altitudes and descending to lower ones to sleep will be our strategy from now on. If this ascent plan is carried out gradually, it increases the possibility of reaching the summit successfully and in a safe and comfortable manner. We’ll spend the night at Plaza de Mulas base camp.

Trekking Time – 7 to 8 hours / Tent / Elevation Min 4,300m / 14,107 ft - Max 5,550m / 18,208 ft

Day 13 Plaza de Mulas. A second rest day in our base camp will allow us to drink plenty of fluids, rest, and eat, to enhance our acclimatization and store up energy for summit day.

Tent / Elevation - 4,300m / 14,107 ft.

Day 14 Plaza de Mulas - Nido de Cóndores. We leave base camp behind us today and move to the first of our high camps, Nido de Condores camp. This is a high traffic route so we’ll meet a lot of people along the trail.

Trekking Time – 7 to 8 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 4,300m / 14,107 ft - Max 5,550m / 18,208 ft.

Day 15 Nido de Condores Camp - Piedras Blancas Camp. Today we’ll move to Berlín or Piedras Blancas or Piedras Negras, depending on the weather and the guide’s criteria. This will be our last camp before the summit.

Trekking Time – 3 to 4 hours / Tent / Elevation Min - 5,550m (18,208 ft) - 6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas) - 6,250m / 20,500ft (Piedras Negras).

Day 16, 17, 18 Piedras Blancas Camp - Summit - Piedras Blancas Camp. With several days in reserve, we’ll wait for the best climatic conditions for summit day. While we wait, we’ll enjoy superb views of the highest section of the Aconcagua south face wall, a truly impressive sight. Following our summit push, we’ll step onto the ‘roof of America’ with great emotion, take photos beside Aconcagua’s emblematic summit cross, admire panoramic views of the central Andes, and descend tired but satisfied to our last high camp.

Trekking Time – 13 to 16 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min - 6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas) - 6,250m / 20,500ft (Piedras Negras) – Max 6,962m (22,835 ft)

Day 19 Piedras Blancas Camp - Plaza de Mulas. We’ll descend from Piedras Blancas to the Plaza de Mulas Camp (4,200m / 13,779 ft), where our Aconcagua Express chef will be waiting with a delicious dinner to help restore our energy.

Trekking Time – 4 to 5 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,300m (14,107 ft) – Max 6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas) - 6,250m / 20,500ft (Piedras Negras)

Day 20 Plaza de Mulas – Santiago. From Plaza de Mulas, our arrieros (mule drivers) and the mules will help us carry out our gear and equipment. Our hike out through Playa Ancha and down the Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes will take six to seven hours. At the Park Ranger’s Station our Aconcagua Express vehicles will be waiting to take us back to Santiago. Following a good night’s rest, the Aconcagua & El Plomo route with Porters expedition comes to an end! Some members may wish to spend some time on their own in Santiago, wher you can discover the city’s wide range of culinary and cultural options and its exciting night life

Transfer distance 190 km – 118 miles / Transfer time 4 hours / Hotel / Elevation – Min 567 m (1,860 ft) - Max 4,300m (13,779 ft)

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Tour Details

Duration	20 days
Difficulty	Excellent Physical Shape
Departures	KLE005-01 December 19, 2010 – January 07, 2011 KLE005-02 January 09, 2011 – January 28, 2011
Expedition cost	US $ 4,500 per person minimum 6 clients
Private Porter	US $ 325 per person minimum 2 clients
Single room suplement	US $ 555 per person
Reservation cost	US $ 1.000
Balance due	75 days prior departure
Space available	12 climbers

Service includes

Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-4.
Porters for common gear (tents) the all expedition.
Mules for individual gear to base camp and return with 20 kg.pp. to El Plomo & Aconcagua.
High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain Hardware and Marmot tents, isolate mattress, high camp stoves & Gaz.
First aid kit, hyperbaric chamber, oxygen bottles, oximeter, including O2 at our high camps.
Satellite phone at base camp on a per minute payment basis.
Radio communication VHF & BLU HF.
Full base camp set up dining tent, chair, tables, etc...
All meals during the expedition.
Permanent access to hot drinks, tea, coffee, biscuits at base camp tent.
Santiago three Hotel nights double occupancy with breakfast at the 5 star Kennedy hotel or equivalent standard.
Penitentes two Hotel night double occupancy with half pension.
Flight Santiago – Mendoza with 20 kg.
Private transportation including airport pick-up.
Airport assistance Mendoza & Santiago.
All local organization and supervision by KL Adventure Staff.
The Aconcagua, “Summit of America” book.

Service does not include

All personal climbing equipment gear
Aconcagua climbing permit fee.
Porter for personal gear on the Aconcagua, except who applied for it.
Any cost involve in an early or late departure.
Santiago and Mendoza meals.
Any drinks (soda, beer or wine) in Santiago & Mendoza.
Cancellation, accident and rescue insurance.
Cash for extra expenses
Any other service not mentioned in the list.
Gratuities are not included.

Important

All itineraries are subject to change due to changes in the weather, individual’s acclimatization rates and the guide’s preferences.
Private Porter to be share between two expedition members carrying 10kg each, service available upon request at additional cost.
Any departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 6 persons

Once you get registered, we will send you :

A detailed list of all the equipment you need.

Aconcagua short equipment list :

-Non detailed version (this is only for “packing your bags”)
-Items marked with ** are available for rent. Items marked with * are available for purchase.

Head:

**Ski Goggles
*Light weight Balaclava
*Warm fleece or wool hat
*Glacier glasses
*Extra pair of sunglasses (these don’t need to be glacier glasses)
Hat or cap with neck protection for sun on the approach days
High U.V. Buff (Optional)
Neoprene face mask

Hands:

Fleece liners
Gore-Tex ski gloves
**Mittens

Upper Body:

(2) Polypropylene top- one medium weight and one expedition weight.
(2) Fleece jackets or lightweight synthetic insulated jacket.
(1) If you opt to only use one of the above jackets then you need an insulated vest.
Ultralight wind jacket (Optional)
Gore-Tex parka
**(1)Expedition Down Parka with down hood.
Long sleeve lightweight cotton type shirt for the hike in.

Lower Body:

(2)-Polypropylene bottom one lightweight and one expedition weight.
(1)-One pair of schoeler or nylon pants.
**Insulated over pants or fleece pants with full side zips
Lightweight Gore-Tex pants with full side zips

Feet:

2 pair of socks for the approach.
3 pair of sock combinations (in additition to above)
Gaiters
**Down or synthetic booties (optional)
**Double plastic boots
Light weight hiking boots, trekking shoes or sneakers
Sandals or neoprene booties.

Sleeping:

**Down or synthetic rated –10 degrees F/ -26 degrees C
Compression sack for sleeping bag
Thermarest pad with repair kit

Backpacks and other bags:

**Internal frame Backpack
*Day pack
Some medium and large stuff sacks
3 heavy-duty plastic bags
**1 large and 1 extra large duffel bags
An assortment of Ziploc bags.

Miscellaneous:

**Trekking poles or ski poles (MANDATORY)
Bandanna (for sun protection and cleaning glasses etc.)
Hand warmers (purchased in most outdoor stores)
Ear plugs (for those windy nights or snoring tent mates)
Potable aqua (1 bottle)
(2) Mole foam made by 3M (for treating blisters) (MANDATORY)
1 roll of athletic tape (mandatory)
Knife with built in scissors for cutting mole foam/skin.
Sunscreen SPF 30 or higher. Consider bringing Zinc oxide if you burn easily.
Head lamp with extra batteries
Toiletry items (toothbrush/toothpaste, baby wipes (very usefull), tampons
2 Lip balms (chapstick with SPF)
2 water bottles (two liters capacity) and 1 one-liter thermos.
Many people like to have a separate wide mouth bottle only for peeing in. This bottle should be clearly labeled!
Cup, bowl and spoon.

Climbing:

Climbing seat harness (Polish Glacier only)
1 Locking Carabiner (Polish Glacier only)
**Ice axe and leash 60-70 cm
**Crampons

Food:

2-3 pounds total and include items you know will look tasty if feeling less than 100% and that you have experimented with in training. Popular choices may include a variety of certain energy bars, energy gels, candies, nuts, dried fruits, rice crispy treats, brownies etc...

Medical:

Ibuprofen, Motrin or Advil
Asperin
Blister kit (athletic tape, mole foam, and 5-6 bandaids)

Optional Items:

Camera, Paperback book, Pee funnel (for women only), Music

Physical conditioning for your trip with KL Adventure

Whether your trip involves trekking, mountaineering, or technical climbing, your training program should involve the following:

Alpine-specific training (via hiking with a pack and specific skills development pertaining to your trip)
Strength training (via free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines)
Cardiovascular training (via spinal-loading aerobic training)

Alpine specific training - During your training, progressively ramp up your speed, duration (time or mileage), and pack weight of weekly training hikes to give you alpine-specific conditioning that cannot be matched by any other type of training. Hike steep outdoor trails, gradually increasing your pack weight with each outing until you are at your target trip pack weight. A reasonable target for multi-day trips would be to ascend 3,500 feet in a 2-2.5 hour period, or roughly 1,750 vertical feet in an hour, with your target trip pack weight. In early season, you might start out with a 15# pack on hikes that gain up to 1,500’ elevation over 6-8 miles round trip; each hike try increasing the total elevation gain, distance, and/or speed, then begin adding several pounds per trip until you are comfortable with your target trip pack weight. When you can gain 3,500 feet with your target pack weight, start to decrease rest breaks and increase speed. Include overnight trips in your training regimen to get accustomed to successive days of sustained work with little to no recovery time.

Strength training - Training with free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines will help you build overall strength, particularly in the core (lower back and abdominals), upper back, and legs. Developing strength in your upper back and shoulders will help you with such tasks as carrying a pack and using ice axe, ice tools or trekking poles effectively. The calves, hips, quads, hamstrings and glutes are all involved in ascending and descending alpine routes, and strength endurance is required in all areas of the legs and hips. Technical climbing will require a solid foundation in upper body strength training as well. Training primarily with free weights will give you the functional, alpine-specific strength that will help you most in the mountains. In early phases of strength conditioning, focus on building a foundation for harder workouts, starting with 2-3 sets of each exercise for 8-10 repetitions. As you continue to train, you will shift focus to building strength through lower repetitions (5-8) to build maximum strength. Finally for the last 4-6 weeks before your trip start increasing the repetitions to build strength endurance and mental and physical stamina; each phase varies the weight used, repetitions completed, number of sets, and rest interval. Most important in strength training is to be sure you maintain proper form at all times in order to prevent injury or strain.

Cardiovascular training – Activities you can add several times per week to supplement your alpine-specific pack carrying training include spinal-loading exercises such as trail running, walking on an inclined treadmill, doing stair stepping or stepmill training, working on an elliptical machine, or walking up and down hills or stairs with a weighted pack. In early season, include at least 3-4 sessions of 30-45 minutes of sustained activity at a moderate intensity, and gradually build to 4-5 aerobic sessions of sustained effort for an hour or more as you approach your trip. If you will be at high altitude for portions of your trip, include interval training in your weekly program. To do this, find a steep hill or sets of stairs that will allow you to climb steadily for several minutes. Push as hard as you can while you go up, then recover coming down, and repeat for anywhere from 30-45 minutes. For hill walks, add weight to your pack on a regular basis until you can carry slightly more than your target pack weight (referred to as over-weight training) the whole time. Participate in as many hikes or climbs that take you above 8,000’ as you possibly can, in order to learn how your body responds to high altitude.

This training information brought to you by KL Adventure conditioning partner, Body Results. For more conditioning information, products and services and special pricing for KLA’s clients go to www.bodyresults.com/kla

Code	From	To	Status	Price
Aconcagua Normal with El Plomo Route 20 Days
KLE005-01	Sunday, December 19, 2010	Friday, January 07, 2011	available	5,0004,500
KLE005-02	Sunday, January 09, 2011	Friday, January 28, 2011	available	5,0004,500