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Aconcagua and Ojos del Salado Expedition with Porters

  • Description
  • Details
  • Equipment
  • Training
  • Schedule & Rates
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Tour description

The highest mountain in the world after Mount Everest is Aconcagua (6,959m / 22,841 ft), in Argentina’s central Andes, a popular climb for those looking for high-altitude experience on an untechnical Seven Summit. The second highest peak in the Americas is Ojos del Salado (6,893 m / 22,615 ft), an active volcano in the Atacama desert of northern Chile. Due to extreme height, arid conditions, high winds, and very low temperatures both mountains are strenuous and demanding although on the classic routes, not technical. KL Adventure offers an exclusive 28 day tour for climbers who wish to ascend these two great peaks in one fabulous expedition.
Our acclimatization strategy begins in the northern Chilean city of Copiapo, a rich silver and copper mining center for the Atacama region, where we spend 5 days hiking in the spectacular Nevado Tres Cruces National Park. Located to the south of the Maricunga Salar, the park abounds with fauna including flamingoes, vicuñas and guanacos. The Santa Rosa and Negro Francisco lagoons are wetlands of international importance protected under the Ramsar Convention, an intergovernmental agreement which lists and seeks to conserve wetlands around the world.  
We then move on to Laguna Verde (4,400m / 14,765 ft), another high elevation lagoon of other-worldly beauty surrounded by the rainbow-hued  desert and snow-capped volcanoes. We travel to the Refugio Atacama base camp (5,350m / 17,000 ft) in 4-wheel drive vehicles. Allowing our bodies time to acclimatize to the considerable elevation, we’ll making progressively higher ascents. A gradual acclimatization is essential to reduce the risk of altitude sickness and serious conditions like pulmonary edema. From the Refugio Atacama base camp, we ascend to Refugio Tejos (5,750m / 19,350ft). Crossing scree slopes and occasional snow patches we’ll reach the  main summit of Ojos del Salado, using a fixed rope on the final 80 meters. From the summit we’ll enjoy impressive views of the other high mountains of this magnificent range, with its 13 peaks above 6,000m / 19,685 ft.
Returning directly to Copiapo, we’ll catch the afternoon flight to Santiago where we’ll stay overnight, continuing on to  Mendoza, Argentina the following morning. After obtaining our climbing permits we’ll travel to the village of Penitentes where we begin our expedition of Aconcagua ascending by way of the Horcones Valley, with its awesome views of the mountain’s south face. We pass through Confluencia camp (3,390m / 11,122 ft) and Plaza Francia (4,000m / 13,123 ft), reaching our base camp at Plaza Mulas.  Ascending through the Conway Stones and past the rocky pinnacle that forms Plaza Canadá, the trail zigzags northwards through a huge scree slope to finally reach the High Camps of Nido de Condores, or Condor’s Nest (5,380m / 17,650 ft) and Berlin (5,850m / 19,192 ft). Alternatively, some groups use Piedras Blancas camp, a more spacious and protected camp 80 meters above the Berlin camp. With several days in reserve, we’ll wait for the best conditions to make the final short push to the summit, where we’ll admire the awesome views of the central Andes from the roof of America.

To see an Aconcagua topographic map click here

               To see an Ojos del Salado topographic map click here

                                 To order a topographic map : click here

Itinerary

Day 1 Copiapo. On arrival to Copiapo, we’ll settle into our hotel in this bustling centre for mining and agricultural activities in the region.  We’ll meet the guides and other members of the group, make an equipment and gear check, and have a power point presentation on the expedition.
Hotel / Elevation – 543m / 1,781 ft

Day 2 Copiapo – Valle Chico. This morning we’ll make the aproximately three hour journey to Valle Chico, on a road that is half paved and half gravel. We’ll arrive to our camp, have lunch, and in the aftenoon take an acclimatization hike. 
Transfer distance 130km / 80 miles / Transfer time 3 hours / Tent / Elevation  Min  - 543m / 1,781 ft - Max 3,200m / 10,498 ft

Day 3 Valle Chico – Laguna Santa Rosa. Today we travel to Laguna Santa Rosa, a high altitude lake in the stunning Nevado Tres Cruces National Park. We’ll hike part of the distance in the morning along the road.  The Nevado Tres Cruces Park is famous for its spectacular altiplanic scenery and abundant and varied wildlife, including three varieties of flamingoes, and herds of vincuña and guanaco. The striking Laguna Santa Rosa is located on the southern edge of the Maricunga salt lake, the most southern salar in Chile. It’s ringed by imposing snowy mountains including the impressive Tres Cruces (6,753m / 22,155 ft) and, dominating the southern horizon, Volcán Copiapo (6,052m / 19,855 ft).
Transfer distance 90km / 56 miles / Transfer time 1.5 hours / Tent / Elevation Min 3,200m / 10,498 ft - Max 3,600m / 11,811 ft

Day 4 Laguna Santa Rosa Lake – Laguna Negro Francisco. Today we travel around the east side of Volcán Copiapo to reach Laguna Negro Francisco (4,100m / 13,451 ft). This lagoon is larger than the Laguna Santa Rosa and is home to three species of flamingoes and a wide variety of waterfowl. We’ll stay overnight at the Conaf  (National Forestry Corporation of Chile) hut.
Transfer distance 85km / 52 miles / Hut / Transfer time 1,5 / Elevation  Min  3,600m / 11,811 ft - Max 4,100m /  13,451 ft

Day 5 Laguna Negro Francisco. Today we’ll make an easy hike near the Laguna San Francisco to aid in our acclimatization and enjoy the awesome views.
Trekking Time – 3 hours / Hut / Elevation  4,100m /  13,451 ft

Day 6 Laguna Negro Francisco– Summit Volcán Copiapo - Laguna Negro Francisco. Early this morning we’ll make a 45 minute transfer to the base of the Copiapo Volcano (5,000m / 16,404 ft). We’ll ascend this active volcano, with its sulphur fumaroles and summit lagoon, a hike of 8 to 10 hours. We return to the Conaf hut to sleep. 
Trekking Time – 8-10 hours /Hut / Elevation - Min 4,100m /  13,451 ft - Max 6,052m / 19855 ft

Day 7 Laguna Negro Francisco - Laguna Verde. We’ll travel to Laguna Verde (4,325m / 14,189 ft), a beautiful lake of turquoise waters set on a high plateau, surrounded by the highest concentration of tall peaks in the Andes. These include Incahuasi (6,615m), Mulas Muertas (5,897m / 19,347 ft) and Ojos del Salado (6,893m). In the afternoon we’ll luxuriate in the exquisite natural thermal water at the rustic Laguna Verde hotsprings.
Transfer distance 44 km / 27 miles / Transfer time 1 hour / Tent / Elevation  Min  4,100m /  13,451 ft - Max 4,325m / 14,189 ft

Day 8 Laguna Verde. A rest day, today we’ll relax, drink plenty of liquids, and eat well to assist in our acclimatization. We’ll enjoy the stunning landscape around this jewel of a lake.
Elevation 4,325m / 14,189 ft / Tent

Day 9 Laguna Verde – Summit Mulas Muertas - Laguna Verde. Today we ascend Mulas Muertas—Dead Mules (5,897m /19,347 ft). We may not reach the summit as it’s an exhausting one day trip. Our objective is to gain height to aid in our acclimatization and then return to a lower elevation to sleep. We will also get a spectacular view of Laguna Verde and the route we will take on Ojos del Salado. 
Elevation Min 4,325m / 14,189 ft - Max 5,897m /19,347 ft / Tent

Day 10 Laguna Verde - Refugio Atacama. We move today to the Refugio Atacama (5,350m / 17,552 ft), with its magnificent views of the majestic Ojos del Salado. Of the overall distance we will hike aproximately 12 km / 7 miles.  Between driving and walking the trip will take about 4 hours.
Transfer distance 35 k / 21 miles / Trekking Time 2 hours / Tent / Elevation  Min  4,325m / 14,189 ft - Max 5,350m / 17,552 ft

Day 11 Refugio Atacama - Refugio Tejos - Refugio Atacama. This is a portage day in which we’ll take equipment and gear to Refugio Tejos (5,750m / 18,864 ft), a distance of 5 k / 3 mile, a hike of 2 to 3 hours.  We’ll return to Refugio Atacama in the afternoon. Today’s portage—climbing up to a higher altitude and descending to a lower one to sleep—is aimed at making us stronger and helping in our adaptation to the elevation. An optimal acclimatization increases the possibility of reaching the summit successfully and in a safe and comfortable manner.
Trekking Time – 3-4 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 5,350m / 17,552 ft - Max 5,750m / 18,864 ft

Day 12 Refugio Atacama. We’ll take a rest day in camp, drinking plenty of fluids, and eating well. This will aid in our acclimatization and make us stronger for summit day. 
Elevation - Min 5,350m / 17,552 ft / Tent 

Day 13 Refugio Atacama - Refugio Tejos. Today we ascend to Refugio Tejos where we’ll spend the night.
Trekking Time – x hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 5,350m / 17,552 ft - Max 5,750m / 18,864 ft

Day 14 Refugio Tejos – Summit Ojos del Salado - Refugio Atacama. We set out at 4 or 5 in the morning, depending on the wind. This is a windy zone and, due to the altitude, extremely cold—temperatures can descend to -20 to -25 c. The ascent is by way of a scree slope, following a zigzag path for aproximately 4 hours, reaching the plateau of the volcano, a climb of 25 to 30 degrees, and on up a wide ridge to a small lagoon. At the end of the scree, we turn right, toward the west side of the volcano, and after two more hours arrive at the crater. Towards the east we can see the summit. Skirting the left side of the crater we ascend a rocky ridge. The first part is without difficulty. The final part, however, contains a short technical section of grade 5 on the French scale. The guide will install a security rope and with a harness and assistance from the guide, climbers will ascend to the summit.  From the top we have spectacular views of the heart of the Andes, including the impressive 6,000m-plus trio of volcanoes: Nevado Tres Cruce (6,749m / 22,142m), San Francisco (6,016m / 19,737 ft ), and Piscis (6,792m / 22,283 ft). We return to Refugio Atacama to sleep—because of the altitude, it’s difficult to get a good nights sleep at Refugio Tejos. Our descent will follow the same route and will take between three and four hours.
Trekking Time – 10-13  hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 5,750m / 18,864 ft - Max 6893 m  / 22615 ft

Day 15 Refugio Tejos – Summit Ojos del Salado - Refugio Atacama. We’ll keep this day in reserve to allow for poor weather conditions.
Tent / Elevation - Min 5,750m / 18,864 ft - Max 6893 m  / 22615 ft

Day 16 Refugio Atacama – Copiapo – Santiago. Today we return to Copiapo airport where we’ll catch the afternoon flight to Santiago. Tonight we’ll enjoy the comfort of our hotel.
Transfer distance 300 km / 186 miles / Transfer time 5 hours / Hotel / Elevation  Min  543m / 1,781 ft - Max 5,750m / 18,864 ft

Day 17 Santiago – Mendoza – Penitentes – Confluencia. We’ll make an early transfer to the airport and fly 30 minutes to Mendoza, Argentina. At the Aconcagua Provincial Park’s permit office we obtain our mandatory, individual climbing permits. We drive to Penitentes, a 2 ¼ hour trip. After registering at the Park, we hike three hours  up the Horcones Valley, crossing the Horcones River on a bridge built during the making of the film ‘Seven Years in Tibet’. Climbing up a gentle, steadily rising slope, we reach Confluencia Camp (3,300m / 10,826 ft).
Transfer time – 3 hours, approximately /Trekking Time – 3 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 567m (1,860 ft) - Max 3,300m (10,826 ft)

Day 18 Confluencia - Plaza de Mulas. We make a seven- to eight-hour hike to Plaza de Mulas base camp (4,300m / 14,107 ft). Our chef will be waiting for us with hot drinks and a delicious dinner.
Trekking Time – 7-8  hours / Tent / Elevation - Min  3,300m (10,826 ft) -  Max 4,300m (14,107 ft) 

Day 19 Plaza de Mulas. Today we’ll have a rest day in camp drinking plenty of fluids. Rest and good hydration are the essentials for an optimal acclimatization before continuing on to the rigors of the High Camps and the demands of summit day.
Tent / Elevation - 4,300m (14,107 ft)

Day 20 Plaza de Mulas - Nido de Condores camp / Plaza Canada camp - Plaza de Mulas. Today we’ll ascend and portage to Nido de Condores camp (5,550m- 18,208 ft) or Plaza Canada camp (5,050m – 16,568 ft)—depending on the guide’s criteria)—carrying light loads of personal and common gear.   We’ll return to the Plaza de Mulas camp to spend the night.
Trekking Time – 3 to 4  hours / Tent / Elevation - Min  4,300m (14,107 ft) -  Max (5,050m – 16,568 ft) / (5,550m- 18,208 ft)

Day 21 Plaza de Mulas. Today is a rest day in camp. We’ll take it easy, eat well, and drink plenty of liquids to assist in our acclimatization and make us strong for the high camps and summit day.
Tent / Elevation – 4,300m (14,000 ft) 

Day 22 Plaza de Mulas - Plaza Canadá camp / Nido de Cóndores camp. Today we move back to Plaza Canadá camp or Nido de Cóndores camp. We should now be more comfortable in the Aconcagua environment and feel stronger as we grow more accustomed to the altitude.
Trekking Time – 3 to 4  hours / Tent / Elevation - Min  4,200m (14,000 ft) -  Max (5,050m – 16,568 ft) or (5,550m- 18,208 ft) 

Day 23 Plaza Canadá camp - Nido de Condores camp / Piedras Blancas camp – Berlín.  Today we’ll move to Berlín or Piedras Blancas, depending on the conditions and the guide’s criteria.  This will be our last camp before the summit. 
Trekking Time – 4 to 5  hours / Tent / Elevation Min -  5,050m   (16,568 ft) / 5,550m (18,208 ft) - Max 5,550m / 18,208 ft (Nido de Condores) /  6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas)

Days 24, 25 Piedras Blancas camp / Berlín - Summit - Piedras Blancas camp / Berlín. With a reserve day to allow for poor conditions, we’ll leave camp early this morning to make our summit push.  We’ll step onto the ‘roof of America’ with great emotion, take photos beside Aconcagua’s emblematic summit cross, admire panoramic views of the central Andes, and descend tired but satisfied to our last high camp.
Trekking Time – 13 to 16  hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 5,550m / 18,208 ft (Nido de Condores) /  6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas) – Max  6,959m  (22,831 ft)

Day 26 - Piedras Blancas camp / Berlín – Plaza Mulas. We’ll descend from Piedras Blancas / Berlín via the Normal route to the Plaza de Mulas camp (4,200m / 13,779 ft), where our Aconcagua Express chef will be waiting with a delicious dinner to help restore our energy. This base camp has showers, satellite telephone, and an exquisite menu especially prepared for our Expedition.
Trekking Time – 4 to 5 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,300m (14,107 ft) – Max 5,550m / 18,208 ft (Nido de Condores) /  6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas)

Day 27 Plaza de Mulas – Penitentes. From Plaza de Mulas, arrieros (mule drivers) and their mules will help us carry out our gear and equipment. Our hike out through Playa Ancha and down the Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes will take six to seven hours.
Transfer distance 190 km – 118 miles / Transfer time 2 1/4 hours / Hotel / Elevation – Min 2,580m / 8,464 ft - Max 4,300m (14,000 ft) 

Day 28 Penitentes – Mendoza – Santiago. This morning we transfer to Mendoza airport and make the 30 minute return flight to Santiago.  And the Ojos de Salado and Aconcagua expedition comes to an end!
Transfer time – 3 hours, approximately / Elevation - Min 567m / 1,860 ft - Max 2,580m / 8,464 ft

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Tour Details               

Duration

28 days

Difficulty

Excellent Physical Shape Required

Departures

  • KLE012-01 December 12, 2010 – January 08, 2011
  • KLE012-02 December 19, 2010 – January 15, 2011

Expedition cost

US $ 5,990 per person minimum 6 clients.

Hotel single supplement

US $1,000 per person

Reservation cost

US $ 700

Balance due

75 days prior departure

Space available

12 climbers

Service includes

Service does not include 

  • All personal climbing equipment gear.
  • Ojos del Salado & Aconcagua climbing permit.
  • Flight Santiago – Copiapo - Santiago with 20 kg baggage. 
  • Flight Santiago – Mendoza with 20 kg baggage. 
  • Porter for personal gear.
  • Any cost involve in an early or late departure.
  • Copiapo and Santiago meals.
  • Any drinks (soda, beer or wine) in the cities.
  • Cancellation, accident and rescue insurance.
  • Cash for extra expenses.
  • Any other service not mentioned in the list.
  • Gratuities are not included.

Important

  • All itineraries are subject to change due to changes in weather, individual's acclimatization rates and guide's preferences.
  • Any departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 6 persons.
  • Personal porter to be share between two expedition members carrying 10kg each available upon request at additional cost.

Once you get registered, we will send you :

  • A detailed list of all the equipment you need.

 Aconcagua short equipment list :

-Non detailed version (this is only for “packing your bags”)
-Items marked with ** are available for rent.  Items marked with * are available for purchase.

Head:

  •  **Ski Goggles
  •  *Light weight Balaclava
  •  *Warm fleece or wool hat
  •  *Glacier glasses
  •  *Extra pair of sunglasses (these don’t need to be glacier glasses)
  • Hat or cap with neck protection for sun on the approach days
  • High U.V. Buff (Optional)
  • Neoprene face mask

Hands:

  • Fleece liners
  • Gore-Tex ski gloves
  • **Mittens

 Upper Body:

  • (2) Polypropylene top- one medium weight and one expedition weight. 
  • (2) Fleece jackets or lightweight synthetic insulated jacket.
  • (1) If you opt to only use one of the above jackets then you need an insulated vest.
  • Ultralight wind jacket (Optional) 
  • Gore-Tex parka
  • **(1)Expedition Down Parka with down hood.
  • Long sleeve lightweight cotton type shirt for the hike in.

 Lower Body:

  • (2)-Polypropylene bottom one lightweight and one expedition weight.
  • (1)-One pair of schoeler or nylon pants.
  • **Insulated over pants or fleece pants with full side zips
  • Lightweight Gore-Tex pants with full side zips

 Feet:

  • 2 pair of socks for the approach.
  • 3 pair of sock combinations (in additition to above)
  • Gaiters
  • **Down or synthetic booties (optional)
  • **Double plastic boots
  • Light weight hiking boots, trekking shoes or sneakers
  • Sandals or neoprene booties.

 Sleeping:

  • **Down or synthetic rated –10 degrees F/ -26 degrees C
  • Compression sack for sleeping bag
  • Thermarest pad with repair kit

 Backpacks and other bags:

  • **Internal frame Backpack
  • *Day pack
  • Some medium and large stuff sacks
  • 3 heavy-duty plastic bags
  • **1 large and 1 extra large duffel bags
  • An assortment of Ziploc bags.

 Miscellaneous:

  • **Trekking poles or ski poles (MANDATORY)
  • Bandanna (for sun protection and cleaning glasses etc.)
  • Hand warmers (purchased in most outdoor stores)
  • Ear plugs (for those windy nights or snoring tent mates)
  • Potable aqua (1 bottle)
  • (2) Mole foam made by 3M (for treating blisters) (MANDATORY)
  • 1 roll of athletic tape (mandatory)
  • Knife with built in scissors for cutting mole foam/skin.
  • Sunscreen SPF 30 or higher. Consider bringing Zinc oxide if you burn easily.
  • Head lamp with extra batteries
  • Toiletry items (toothbrush/toothpaste, baby wipes (very usefull), tampons
  • 2 Lip balms (chapstick with SPF)
  • 2 water bottles (two liters capacity) and 1 one-liter thermos.  
  • Many people like to have a separate wide mouth bottle only for peeing in. This bottle should be clearly labeled!
  • Cup, bowl and spoon.

 Climbing:

  • Climbing seat harness (Polish Glacier only)
  • 1 Locking Carabiner  (Polish Glacier only)
  • **Ice axe and leash 60-70 cm
  • **Crampons

 Food:

  • 2-3 pounds total and include items you know will look tasty if feeling less than 100% and that you have experimented with in training. Popular choices may include a variety of certain energy bars, energy gels, candies, nuts, dried fruits, rice crispy treats, brownies etc...

 Medical:

  • Ibuprofen, Motrin or Advil
  • Asperin
  • Blister kit (athletic tape, mole foam, and 5-6 bandaids)

 Optional Items:

  • Camera, Paperback book, Pee funnel (for women only), Music

Physical conditioning for your trip with KL Adventure

Whether your trip involves trekking, mountaineering, or technical climbing, your training program should involve the following:

  • Alpine-specific training (via hiking with a pack and specific skills development pertaining to your trip)
  • Strength training (via free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines)
  • Cardiovascular training (via spinal-loading aerobic training)


Alpine specific training - During your training, progressively ramp up your speed, duration (time or mileage), and pack weight of weekly training hikes to give you alpine-specific conditioning that cannot be matched by any other type of training. Hike steep outdoor trails, gradually increasing your pack weight with each outing until you are at your target trip pack weight. A reasonable target for multi-day trips would be to ascend 3,500 feet in a 2-2.5 hour period, or roughly 1,750 vertical feet in an hour, with your target trip pack weight. In early season, you might start out with a 15# pack on hikes that gain up to 1,500’ elevation over 6-8 miles round trip; each hike try increasing the total elevation gain, distance, and/or speed, then begin adding several pounds per trip until you are comfortable with your target trip pack weight. When you can gain 3,500 feet with your target pack weight, start to decrease rest breaks and increase speed.  Include overnight trips in your training regimen to get accustomed to successive days of sustained work with little to no recovery time.

Strength training - Training with free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines will help you build overall strength, particularly in the core (lower back and abdominals), upper back, and legs. Developing strength in your upper back and shoulders will help you with such tasks as carrying a pack and using ice axe, ice tools or trekking poles effectively.  The calves, hips, quads, hamstrings and glutes are all involved in ascending and descending alpine routes, and strength endurance is required in all areas of the legs and hips.  Technical climbing will require a solid foundation in upper body strength training as well. Training primarily with free weights will give you the functional, alpine-specific strength that will help you most in the mountains. In early phases of strength conditioning, focus on building a foundation for harder workouts, starting with 2-3 sets of each exercise for 8-10 repetitions. As you continue to train, you will shift focus to building strength through lower repetitions (5-8) to build maximum strength. Finally for the last 4-6 weeks before your trip start increasing the repetitions to build strength endurance and mental and physical stamina; each phase varies the weight used, repetitions completed, number of sets, and rest interval.  Most important in strength training is to be sure you maintain proper form at all times in order to prevent injury or strain.

Cardiovascular training – Activities you can add several times per week to supplement your alpine-specific pack carrying training include spinal-loading exercises such as trail running, walking on an inclined treadmill, doing stair stepping or stepmill training, working on an elliptical machine, or walking up and down hills or stairs with a weighted pack.  In early season, include at least 3-4 sessions of 30-45 minutes of sustained activity at a moderate intensity, and gradually build to 4-5 aerobic sessions of sustained effort for an hour or more as you approach your trip. If you will be at high altitude for portions of your trip, include interval training in your weekly program. To do this, find a steep hill or sets of stairs that will allow you to climb steadily for several minutes. Push as hard as you can while you go up, then recover coming down, and repeat for anywhere from 30-45 minutes.  For hill walks, add weight to your pack on a regular basis until you can carry slightly more than your target pack weight (referred to as over-weight training) the whole time. Participate in as many hikes or climbs that take you above 8,000’ as you possibly can, in order to learn how your body responds to high altitude.

This training information brought to you by KL Adventure conditioning partner, Body Results. For more conditioning information, products and services and special pricing for KLA’s clients go to www.bodyresults.com/kla

Code From To Status Price
Ojos del Salado & Aconcagua 28 Days
    KLE012-01 Sunday, December 12, 2010 Saturday, January 08, 2011 available 7,0005,990
    KLE012-02 Sunday, December 19, 2010 Saturday, January 15, 2011 available 7,0005,990

KL Adventure SA

Ski Tours, Heliski, Expeditions & Treks in the Andes.
Aconcagua - Atacama Desert - Torres del Paine - Ojos del Salado - Mt. Vinson AntarcticaBolivia mountains.

Head Office: Augusto Mira Fernandez 14248, Las Condes, Santiago, Chile
Phone: (56-2) 217 9101
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