Aconcagua Normal or Classic Route with Porters

Aconcagua Normal or Classic Route

Normal Route

Tour Description

This expedition to the ‘Roof of America’, Mt Aconcagua (6,962m / 22,835 ft), ascends the Horcones Valley with its awesome views of the mountain’s south face. The trek to Confluencia (3,390m / 11,122 ft), our first mid-mountain camp, will take four hours. The following day, we’ll make a five-hour day hike to Plaza Francia (4,000m / 13,123 ft), at the base of the impressive south wall, to assist in our acclimatization. On the following day we trek up Playa Ancha, a 10 km (6 miles) long flat formation of alluvial material and boulders, situated at an elevation of between 3,600m and 3,800 meters (11,811 ft and 12,467 ft). From a spot on Playa Ancha both peaks of the Aconcagua come into view as does Pyramid Hill, a lower summit on the south-western face, where an Inca mummy was found in 1985 at an elevation of 5,300m (17,388 ft).
Following a short steep rise at Cuesta Brava, the route reaches busy Plaza Mulas base camp at 4,300m (14,107 ft). Ascending through the Conway Stones and past the rocky pinnacle that forms Plaza Canadá, the trail zigzags northwards through a huge scree slope to finally reach the High Camps of Nido Condores, or Condor’s Nest, at 5,380m (17,650 ft) and Berlin at 5,850m (19,192 ft). Alternatively, some groups use Piedras Blancas Camp, a more spacious and protected camp 80 meters above the Berlin Camp. With several days in reserve, we’ll wait for the best conditions to make the final short push to the summit. Its breathtaking views will be a balm for our tired bodies and a magnificent reward for all our efforts!

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Day by day itinerary

Day 1 Mendoza. You will be picked up at Plumerillos Airport in Mendoza and transferred to our Hotel. After meeting the guides and other members of the group, we’ll make an equipment and gear check, and have a power point presentation on the expedition.

Hotel / Elevation - 761 m (2,497 ft)

Day 2 Mendoza - Penitentes. Before leaving Mendoza, we’ll visit the Aconcagua Provincial Park’s permit office to obtain our mandatory, individual climbing permits. Then we’ll drive towards the Park, stopping for lunch in Uspallata. We’ll continue our journey west to the village of Penitentes, situated at the entrance to the Vacas Valley, which gives access to our route. Overnight in Penitentes.

Transfer distance 190 km – 118 miles / Transfer time 2 1/4 hours / Hotel Penitentes / Elevation - Min 761 m (2,497 ft) - Max 2,580m – (8,464 ft)

Day 3 Penitentes - Confluencia. After officially entering the Park, we make a three-hour hike up the Horcones Valley, crossing the Horcones River on a bridge built during the making of the film ‘Seven Years in Tibet’. We climb a gentle, steady slope to Confluencia Camp (3,300m / 10,826 ft).

Trekking Time – 3 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 2,580m (8,464 ft) - Max 3,385m (11,103 ft)

Day 4 Confluencia - Plaza Francia - Confluencia. Today we trek to the Plaza Francia Camp (4,100m / 13,451 ft) and located at the foot of the south face wall of Aconcagua. Fom this point we can observe the climbing routes taken by some of the world’s most famous mountaineers. In the afternoon we return to Confluencia Camp.

Trekking Time – 5 to 7 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 3,300m (10,826 ft) - Max 4,100m (13,451 ft)

Day 5 Confluencia - Plaza de Mulas. We make a seven- to eight-hour hike to Plaza de Mulas base camp (4,300m / 14,107 ft) Our chef will be waiting for us with hot drinks and a delicious dinner. This base camp has showers, satellite telephone, and an exquisite menu especially prepared for our Expedition.

Trekking Time – 7 to 8 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 3,300m (10,826 ft) - Max 4,300m (14,107 ft)

Day 6 Plaza de Mulas. Today we’ll have a rest day relaxing around camp drinking plenty of fluids. Rest and good hydration are the essentials for an optimal acclimatization before continuing on to the rigors of the High Camps and the demands of summit day.

Tent / Elevation - 4,300m (14,107 ft)

Day 7 Plaza de Mulas - Cerro Bonete - Plaza Mulas. Today we’ll make an easy day ascent of Mt. Bonete (5,004m/ 16,413 ft) to aid in our acclimatization and admire spectacular views of the central Andes.

Trekking Time – 5 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 4,300m (14,107 ft) - Max 5,193m (17,033 ft)

Day 8 Plaza de Mulas – Plaza Canadá Camp - Plaza de Mulas. Leaving our arrieros (mule drivers) and the mules in base camp, we’ll make our first day of portage, carrying light loads of personal and common gear up to Plaza Canada Camp (5,050m – 16,568 ft). Today’s portage—and other days of portage during the expedition—are essential to achieving an optimal acclimatization. Climbing up to higher altitudes and descending to lower ones to sleep will be our strategy from now on. If this ascent plan is carried out gradually, it increases the possibility of reaching the summit successfully and in a safe and comfortable manner. We’ll spend the night at Plaza de Mulas Camp.

Trekking Time – 3 to 4 hours / Tent / Elevation Min 4,300m (14,107 ft) - Max 5,050m (16,568 ft)

Day 9 Plaza de Mulas. Today is a rest day in Camp. We’ll take it easy, eat well, and drink plenty of liquids to assist in our acclimatization and make us strong for the higher camps and summit day.

Tent / Elevation – 4,300m (14,000 ft)

Day 10 Plaza de Mulas - Plaza Canadá Camp. Today we move back to Plaza Canadá Camp. We should now be more comfortable in the Aconcagua environment and feel stronger as we grow more accustomed to the altitude.

Trekking Time – 3 to 4 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 4,300m (14,107 ft) - Max 5,050m (16,568 ft)

Day 11 Plaza Canadá Camp - Nido de Condores Camp. Today we move to Nido de Condores Camp. This is a high traffic route so we will meet a lot of people on the trail.

Trekking Time – 4 to 5 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 5,050m (16,568 ft) - Max 5,550m (18,208 ft)

Day 12 Nido de Condores Camp. Today is a rest day in camp. We’ll hydrate well and rest in preparation for summit day. In any event, it’s important to emphasize that climbers should not start getting anxious about rushing up to the summit. We know from experience that an extra day spent resting at this altitude enhances our acclimatization and considerably improves our chances of making the summit safely, comfortably, and successfully.

Tent / Elevation - Max 5,550m (18,208 ft)

Day 13 Nido de Condores Camp - Piedras Blancas Camp. Today we’ll move to Berlín or Piedras Blancas or Piedras Negras, depending on the weather and the guide’s criteria. This will be our last camp before the summit.

Trekking Time – 3 to 4 hours / Tent / Elevation Min - 5,550m (18,208 ft) - 6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas) - 6,250m / 20,500ft (Piedras Negras)

Days 14, 15 & 16 Piedras Blancas Camp - Summit - Piedras Blancas Camp. With several days in reserve, we’ll wait for the best climatic conditions for summit day. While we wait, we’ll enjoy superb views of the highest section of the Aconcagua south face wall, a truly impressive sight. Following our summit push, we’ll step onto the ‘roof of America’ with great emotion, take photos beside Aconcagua’s emblematic summit cross, admire panoramic views of the central Andes, and descend tired but satisfied to our last high camp.

Trekking Time – 13 to 16 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min - 6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas) - 6,250m / 20,500ft (Piedras Negras) – Max 6,962m (22,835 ft)

Day 17 - Piedras Blancas Camp - Plaza de Mulas. We’ll descend from Piedras Blancas to the Plaza de Mulas Camp (4,200m / 13,779 ft), where our Aconcagua Express chef will be waiting with a delicious dinner to help restore our energy.

Trekking Time – 4 to 5 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,300m (14,107 ft) – Max 6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas) - 6,250m / 20,500ft (Piedras Negras)

Day 18 Plaza de Mulas – Mendoza. From Plaza de Mulas, our arrieros (mule drivers) and the mules will help us carry out our gear and equipment. Our hike out through Playa Ancha and down the Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes will take six to seven hours. At the Park Ranger’s Station our Aconcagua Express vehicles will be waiting to take us back to Mendoza. Following a good night’s rest, the Aconcagua Normal route with Porters expedition comes to an end! Some members may wish to spend some time on their own in Mendoza, discovering the charms of this attractive city and its beautiful surroundings.

Transfer distance 190 km – 118 miles / Transfer time 2 1/4 hours / Hotel / Elevation – Min 761 m (2,497 ft) - Max 4,300m (13,779 ft)

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Tour Details

Duration	18 days
Difficulty	Excellent Physical Shape
Departure	KLE004-01 December 05, 2010 - December 22, 2010 KLE004-02 December 12, 2010 – December 29, 2010 KLE004-03 December 19, 2010 – January 05, 2011 KLE004-04 January 02, 2011 – January 19, 2011 KLE005-05 January 09, 2011 – January 26, 2011 KLE005-06 January 16, 2011 – February 02, 2011
Expedition cost	US $ 3,000 per person minimum 6 clients.
Personal Porter	US $ 325 per person minimum 2 clients.
Single room suplement	US $ 500 per person
Reservation cost	US $ 700
Balance payment date	75 days prior departure
Space available	12 climbers

Service includes

Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-4.
Porter for group gear (tents) during the entire expedition.
Mules for individual gear to base camp and return with a maximum of 20 kg. per person.
High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain Hardware and Marmot tents, isolate mattress, high camp stoves & Fuel.
First aid kit, hyperbaric chamber, oxygen bottles, oximeter, including O2 at our high camps.
Satellite phone at base camp on a per minute payment basis.
VHF 2 mt & BLU HF radio communication equipment.
Full base camp set up dining tent, chair, tables, etc..
All meals during the expedition.
Permanently available hot drinks and biscuits at base camp tent.
Two hotel nights in Mendoza, double occupancy with breakfast, at Hyatt or NH Hotel.
One hotel night in Penitentes, double occupancy with half pension.
Private transportation included airport pick-up.
Assistance at Mendoza airport.
All local organization and supervision by KL Adventure & Aconcagua Express Staff.
The Aconcagua, “Summit of America” book, by Mauricio Fernandez.

Service does not include

All personal climbing equipment gear.
Aconcagua climbing permit fee.
Porter for personal gear, except who applied for it.
Any cost involve in an early or late departure.
Mendoza meals.
Any drinks (soda, beer or wine) in Mendoza.
Cancellation, accident and rescue insurance.
Cash for extra expenses
Any other service not mentioned in the list.
Gratuities are not included.

Important

All itineraries are subject to change due to changes in the weather, individual’s acclimatization rates and the guide’s preferences.
With good weather and good acclimatization the trip may be back in Mendoza earlier.
Personal porter service for personal gear available upon request at additional cost.
Any departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 6 persons.

Once you get registered, we will send you :

A detailed list of all the equipment you need.

Aconcagua short equipment list :

-Non detailed version (this is only for “packing your bags”)
-Items marked with ** are available for rent. Items marked with * are available for purchase.

Head:

**Ski Goggles
*Light weight Balaclava
*Warm fleece or wool hat
*Glacier glasses
*Extra pair of sunglasses (these don’t need to be glacier glasses)
Hat or cap with neck protection for sun on the approach days
High U.V. Buff (Optional)
Neoprene face mask

Hands:

Fleece liners
Gore-Tex ski gloves
**Mittens

Upper Body:

(2) Polypropylene top- one medium weight and one expedition weight.
(2) Fleece jackets or lightweight synthetic insulated jacket.
(1) If you opt to only use one of the above jackets then you need an insulated vest.
Ultralight wind jacket (Optional)
Gore-Tex parka
**(1)Expedition Down Parka with down hood.
Long sleeve lightweight cotton type shirt for the hike in.

Lower Body:

(2)-Polypropylene bottom one lightweight and one expedition weight.
(1)-One pair of schoeler or nylon pants.
**Insulated over pants or fleece pants with full side zips
Lightweight Gore-Tex pants with full side zips

Feet:

2 pair of socks for the approach.
3 pair of sock combinations (in additition to above)
Gaiters
**Down or synthetic booties (optional)
**Double plastic boots
Light weight hiking boots, trekking shoes or sneakers
Sandals or neoprene booties.

Sleeping:

**Down or synthetic rated –10 degrees F/ -26 degrees C
Compression sack for sleeping bag
Thermarest pad with repair kit

Backpacks and other bags:

**Internal frame Backpack
*Day pack
Some medium and large stuff sacks
3 heavy-duty plastic bags
**1 large and 1 extra large duffel bags
An assortment of Ziploc bags.

Miscellaneous:

**Trekking poles or ski poles (MANDATORY)
Bandanna (for sun protection and cleaning glasses etc.)
Hand warmers (purchased in most outdoor stores)
Ear plugs (for those windy nights or snoring tent mates)
Potable aqua (1 bottle)
(2) Mole foam made by 3M (for treating blisters) (MANDATORY)
1 roll of athletic tape (mandatory)
Knife with built in scissors for cutting mole foam/skin.
Sunscreen SPF 30 or higher. Consider bringing Zinc oxide if you burn easily.
Head lamp with extra batteries
Toiletry items (toothbrush/toothpaste, baby wipes (very usefull), tampons
2 Lip balms (chapstick with SPF)
2 water bottles (two liters capacity) and 1 one-liter thermos.
Many people like to have a separate wide mouth bottle only for peeing in. This bottle should be clearly labeled!
Cup, bowl and spoon.

Climbing:

Climbing seat harness (Polish Glacier only)
1 Locking Carabiner (Polish Glacier only)
**Ice axe and leash 60-70 cm
**Crampons

Food:

2-3 pounds total and include items you know will look tasty if feeling less than 100% and that you have experimented with in training. Popular choices may include a variety of certain energy bars, energy gels, candies, nuts, dried fruits, rice crispy treats, brownies etc...

Medical:

Ibuprofen, Motrin or Advil
Asperin
Blister kit (athletic tape, mole foam, and 5-6 bandaids)

Optional Items:

Camera, Paperback book, Pee funnel (for women only), Music

Physical conditioning for your trip with KL Adventure

Whether your trip involves trekking, mountaineering, or technical climbing, your training program should involve the following:

Alpine-specific training (via hiking with a pack and specific skills development pertaining to your trip)
Strength training (via free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines)
Cardiovascular training (via spinal-loading aerobic training)

Alpine specific training - During your training, progressively ramp up your speed, duration (time or mileage), and pack weight of weekly training hikes to give you alpine-specific conditioning that cannot be matched by any other type of training. Hike steep outdoor trails, gradually increasing your pack weight with each outing until you are at your target trip pack weight. A reasonable target for multi-day trips would be to ascend 3,500 feet in a 2-2.5 hour period, or roughly 1,750 vertical feet in an hour, with your target trip pack weight. In early season, you might start out with a 15# pack on hikes that gain up to 1,500’ elevation over 6-8 miles round trip; each hike try increasing the total elevation gain, distance, and/or speed, then begin adding several pounds per trip until you are comfortable with your target trip pack weight. When you can gain 3,500 feet with your target pack weight, start to decrease rest breaks and increase speed. Include overnight trips in your training regimen to get accustomed to successive days of sustained work with little to no recovery time.

Strength training - Training with free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines will help you build overall strength, particularly in the core (lower back and abdominals), upper back, and legs. Developing strength in your upper back and shoulders will help you with such tasks as carrying a pack and using ice axe, ice tools or trekking poles effectively. The calves, hips, quads, hamstrings and glutes are all involved in ascending and descending alpine routes, and strength endurance is required in all areas of the legs and hips. Technical climbing will require a solid foundation in upper body strength training as well. Training primarily with free weights will give you the functional, alpine-specific strength that will help you most in the mountains. In early phases of strength conditioning, focus on building a foundation for harder workouts, starting with 2-3 sets of each exercise for 8-10 repetitions. As you continue to train, you will shift focus to building strength through lower repetitions (5-8) to build maximum strength. Finally for the last 4-6 weeks before your trip start increasing the repetitions to build strength endurance and mental and physical stamina; each phase varies the weight used, repetitions completed, number of sets, and rest interval. Most important in strength training is to be sure you maintain proper form at all times in order to prevent injury or strain.

Cardiovascular training – Activities you can add several times per week to supplement your alpine-specific pack carrying training include spinal-loading exercises such as trail running, walking on an inclined treadmill, doing stair stepping or stepmill training, working on an elliptical machine, or walking up and down hills or stairs with a weighted pack. In early season, include at least 3-4 sessions of 30-45 minutes of sustained activity at a moderate intensity, and gradually build to 4-5 aerobic sessions of sustained effort for an hour or more as you approach your trip. If you will be at high altitude for portions of your trip, include interval training in your weekly program. To do this, find a steep hill or sets of stairs that will allow you to climb steadily for several minutes. Push as hard as you can while you go up, then recover coming down, and repeat for anywhere from 30-45 minutes. For hill walks, add weight to your pack on a regular basis until you can carry slightly more than your target pack weight (referred to as over-weight training) the whole time. Participate in as many hikes or climbs that take you above 8,000’ as you possibly can, in order to learn how your body responds to high altitude.

This training information brought to you by KL Adventure conditioning partner, Body Results. For more conditioning information, products and services and special pricing for KLA’s clients go to www.bodyresults.com/kla

Code	From	To	Status	Price
Aconcagua Normal Route with Porters 18 Days
KLE004-01	Sunday, December 05, 2010	Wednesday, December 22, 2010	available	3,6003,000
KLE004-02	Sunday, December 12, 2010	Wednesday, December 29, 2010	available	3,6003,000
KLE004-03	Sunday, December 19, 2010	Wednesday, January 05, 2011	available	3,6003,000
KLE004-04	Sunday, January 02, 2011	Wednesday, January 19, 2011	available	3,6003,000
KLE004-05	Sunday, January 09, 2011	Wednesday, January 26, 2011	available	3,6003,000
KLE004-06	Sunday, January 16, 2011	Wednesday, February 02, 2011	available	3,6003,000