Aconcagua and Ojos del Salado Expedition with Porters

Tour description

The highest mountain in the world outside of Mount Everest is Mount Aconcagua in Argentina, very popular among those climbers willing to reach an easy Seven Summit and gain experience to climb higher peaks. An the second highest peak in the Americas is Ojos del Salado,. Both Aconcagua & Ojos del Salado are strenuous and demanded introduction to any of those goals in terms of altitude, temperature and winds with the exception of technical degree, which have non through their respective classic routes.
KL Adventure has re set again this 25 day exclusive expedition tour in his annual climbing calendar for those climbers who want to take advantage to match two great peaks in the isolate Atacama region as well in the Central Andes.

Our acclimatization plan start in the north city of Copiapo, a rich silver and copper mining district in the Atacama region.  We follow a 5 days trekking and hiking in the Santa Rosa & Negro Francisco lagoon inside the Nevado Tres Cruces National Park. Located just south of the Salar de Maricunga, the Santa Rosa lagoon is known for its pink flamingoes, which reside on the lagoon year-round. Laguna Santa Rosa, along with Laguna del Negro Francisco, is a Wetland of International Importance under the Ramsar Convention. As a nationally protected area, there is an abundance of fauna, such as flamingoes and vicuñas.

Later we move north east into Laguna Verde 14,765' (4.400m) a turquoise lake with a view of snow-capped volcanoes and red desert slopes almost in front of our final destination, Ojos del Salado. The base camp named Refugio Atacama and located at 17,000’ / 5.350m is a 4-wheel drive vehicles reachable point, which make this tour not only an easy and fantastic climbing peak, but a very necessary and gradually altitude adjustment step program minimizing any risk of high altitude sickness such as puna and edema.. From this point we hike to Refugio Tejos, a hut at 19,350' / 5.750m, which is probably the highest mountain hut in the world! Gentle scree slopes and occasional snow patches lead us to the main summit. There is fix rope at the last 80 meter summit push, which needs to be climb to stand in the real summit!!

Our return is directly to the city of Copiapo to catch the afternoon domestic flight to Santiago

To see an Aconcagua topographic map click here

               To see an Ojos del Salado topographic map click here

                                 To order a topographic map : click here

Itinerary

 

Day 1 Reception in Copiapo by a KL Adventure Guide, transfer to hotel, check in procedures, and climbing equipment check. We later have a group meeting to overview the program. Hotel NH

Day 2 Transfer to Valle Chico, 3.000 mts. Tent

Day 3 From Valle Chico we move to Santa Rosa lake, 3.800 mts. Tent

Day 4 Move to Negro Francisco lake, 4.100 mts. Tent

Day 5 Easy hike nearby San Francisco. Tent 

Day 6 Climb Volcan Copiapo. Tent

Day 7 Today we move to Laguna Verde, 4.400 mts and take great hot spring with the full colors of the this high plateau lake. Tent 

Day 8 Rest day, trek around this beautiful turquoise lake. Tent

Day 9 Climb Mulas Muertas 5.897 mts. and return Laguna Verde. Tent  

Day 10 Move to Refugio Atacama at 5.350 mts. Tent

Day 11 Portage to Refugio Tejos at 5,750m, return to Refugio Atacama. Tent

Day 12  Rest day. Tent

Day 13 We ascend to Refugio Tejos. Tent

Day 14 Summit day and return to Atacama camp. Tent

Day 15 Reserve day. Tent

Day 16 Transfer to Copiapo to connect the afternoon flight to Santiago, transfer to comfortable hotel. Hotel.

Day 17 Early transfers to the airport and fly 30 minutes to Mendoza Argentina. Transfer to Aconcagua office for permits and transfer in a 3 hours drive to Penitentes. Transfer to Aconcagua park ranger station for registration and start trekking 3 hours to Confluencia middy camp located at 3.300 mts. Camp

Day 18 We continue on towards Plaza de Mulas base camp at 4,300m of elevation. This is a 7 to 8 hour hike to our Plaza de Mulas camp. Our Chef awaits us here with a big dinner and hot drinks. Tent.

Day 19 Rest at Plaza de Mulas base camp. It is necessary to drink plenty of water and rest to achieve a good adaptation to the altitude before continuing on to the high camps and before summit day. Tent. 

Day 20 Ascent and portage to Nido de Cóndores high camp at 5,380m and return to Plaza Mulas camp. Tent.

Day 21 Rest at Plaza Mulas. Tent.

Day 22 Ascent to Nido de Cóndores high camp.  Tent.

Day 23 Ascent to high camp 2, Berlin, at 5,850m. Tent.

Day 24 Summit day and return to Berlin or Nido. Tent.

Day 25 Extra day to allow for weather conditions at Berlin or Nido high camps. Tent.

Day 26  Descent to Plaza de Mulas. Tent.

Day 27 From Plaza de Mulas we have mules to help carry out our gear, allowing for a “light” trek through Playa Ancha and Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes in a 6 to 7 hour hike. At the Park Rangers station transport awaits us to take us to Hotel in Penitentes village. Hotel

Day 28 Transfer to Santiago. End of expedition

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Tour Details               

Duration	28 days
Difficulty	Excellent Physical Shape
Departures	KLE012-01 December 12, 2010 – January 08, 2011 KLE012-02 December 19, 2010 – January 15, 2011
Expedition cost	US $ 5,990 per person minimum 6 clients.
Hotel single supplement	US $1,000 per person
Reservation cost	US $ 700
Balance due	75 days prior departure
Space available	12 climbers

Service includes

• Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
• Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-4.
• Porter for group gear (tents) during the Aconcagua expedition.
• Mules for individual gear to base camp and return with a maximum of 20 kg. per person.
• Difrol permit process.
• High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain Hardware and Marmot tents, isolate mattress, high camp stoves & Fuel.
• First aid kit, hyperbaric chamber, oxygen bottles, oximeter, including O2 at our high camps.
• Satellite phone at base camp on a per minute payment basis.
• VHF 2 mt & BLU HF radio communication equipment.
• Full base camp set up dining tent, chair, tables, etc..
• All meals during the expedition.
• Permanently available hot drinks and biscuits at base camp tent.
• Four hotel nights double occupancy with breakfast.
• Private transportation including airport pick up.
• All local organization and supervision by KL Adventure & Aconcagua Express Staff.
• The Aconcagua, “Summit of America” book, by Mauricio Fernandez.

Service does not include 

• All personal climbing equipment gear.
• Ojos del Salado & Aconcagua climbing permit.
• Flight Santiago – Copiapo - Santiago with 20 kg baggage. 
• Flight Santiago – Mendoza with 20 kg baggage. 
• Porter for personal gear.
• Any cost involve in an early or late departure.
• Copiapo and Santiago meals.
• Any drinks (soda, beer or wine) in the cities.
• Cancellation, accident and rescue insurance.
• Cash for extra expenses.
• Any other service not mentioned in the list.
• Gratuities are not included.

Important

• All itineraries are subject to change due to changes in weather, individual's acclimatization rates and guide's preferences.
• Any departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 6 persons.
• Personal porter to be share between two expedition members carrying 10kg each available upon request at additional cost.

Once you get registered, we will send you :

• A detailed list of all the equipment you need.

 Aconcagua short equipment list :

-Non detailed version (this is only for “packing your bags”)
-Items marked with ** are available for rent.  Items marked with * are available for purchase.

Head:

•  **Ski Goggles
•  *Light weight Balaclava
•  *Warm fleece or wool hat
•  *Glacier glasses
•  *Extra pair of sunglasses (these don’t need to be glacier glasses)
• Hat or cap with neck protection for sun on the approach days
• High U.V. Buff (Optional)
• Neoprene face mask

Hands:

• Fleece liners
• Gore-Tex ski gloves
• **Mittens

 Upper Body:

• (2) Polypropylene top- one medium weight and one expedition weight. 
• (2) Fleece jackets or lightweight synthetic insulated jacket.
• (1) If you opt to only use one of the above jackets then you need an insulated vest.
• Ultralight wind jacket (Optional) 
• Gore-Tex parka
• **(1)Expedition Down Parka with down hood.
• Long sleeve lightweight cotton type shirt for the hike in.

 Lower Body:

• (2)-Polypropylene bottom one lightweight and one expedition weight.
• (1)-One pair of schoeler or nylon pants.
• **Insulated over pants or fleece pants with full side zips
• Lightweight Gore-Tex pants with full side zips

 Feet:

• 2 pair of socks for the approach.
• 3 pair of sock combinations (in additition to above)
• Gaiters
• **Down or synthetic booties (optional)
• **Double plastic boots
• Light weight hiking boots, trekking shoes or sneakers
• Sandals or neoprene booties.

 Sleeping:

• **Down or synthetic rated –10 degrees F/ -26 degrees C
• Compression sack for sleeping bag
• Thermarest pad with repair kit

 Backpacks and other bags:

• **Internal frame Backpack
• *Day pack
• Some medium and large stuff sacks
• 3 heavy-duty plastic bags
• **1 large and 1 extra large duffel bags
• An assortment of Ziploc bags.

 Miscellaneous:

• **Trekking poles or ski poles (MANDATORY)
• Bandanna (for sun protection and cleaning glasses etc.)
• Hand warmers (purchased in most outdoor stores)
• Ear plugs (for those windy nights or snoring tent mates)
• Potable aqua (1 bottle)
• (2) Mole foam made by 3M (for treating blisters) (MANDATORY)
• 1 roll of athletic tape (mandatory)
• Knife with built in scissors for cutting mole foam/skin.
• Sunscreen SPF 30 or higher. Consider bringing Zinc oxide if you burn easily.
• Head lamp with extra batteries
• Toiletry items (toothbrush/toothpaste, baby wipes (very usefull), tampons
• 2 Lip balms (chapstick with SPF)
• 2 water bottles (two liters capacity) and 1 one-liter thermos.  
• Many people like to have a separate wide mouth bottle only for peeing in. This bottle should be clearly labeled!
• Cup, bowl and spoon.

 Climbing:

• Climbing seat harness (Polish Glacier only)
• 1 Locking Carabiner  (Polish Glacier only)
• **Ice axe and leash 60-70 cm
• **Crampons

 Food:

• 2-3 pounds total and include items you know will look tasty if feeling less than 100% and that you have experimented with in training. Popular choices may include a variety of certain energy bars, energy gels, candies, nuts, dried fruits, rice crispy treats, brownies etc...

 Medical:

• Ibuprofen, Motrin or Advil
• Asperin
• Blister kit (athletic tape, mole foam, and 5-6 bandaids)

 Optional Items:

• Camera, Paperback book, Pee funnel (for women only), Music

Physical conditioning for your trip with KL Adventure

Whether your trip involves trekking, mountaineering, or technical climbing, your training program should involve the following:

• Alpine-specific training (via hiking with a pack and specific skills development pertaining to your trip)
• Strength training (via free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines)
• Cardiovascular training (via spinal-loading aerobic training)

Alpine specific training - During your training, progressively ramp up your speed, duration (time or mileage), and pack weight of weekly training hikes to give you alpine-specific conditioning that cannot be matched by any other type of training. Hike steep outdoor trails, gradually increasing your pack weight with each outing until you are at your target trip pack weight. A reasonable target for multi-day trips would be to ascend 3,500 feet in a 2-2.5 hour period, or roughly 1,750 vertical feet in an hour, with your target trip pack weight. In early season, you might start out with a 15# pack on hikes that gain up to 1,500’ elevation over 6-8 miles round trip; each hike try increasing the total elevation gain, distance, and/or speed, then begin adding several pounds per trip until you are comfortable with your target trip pack weight. When you can gain 3,500 feet with your target pack weight, start to decrease rest breaks and increase speed.  Include overnight trips in your training regimen to get accustomed to successive days of sustained work with little to no recovery time.

Strength training - Training with free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines will help you build overall strength, particularly in the core (lower back and abdominals), upper back, and legs. Developing strength in your upper back and shoulders will help you with such tasks as carrying a pack and using ice axe, ice tools or trekking poles effectively.  The calves, hips, quads, hamstrings and glutes are all involved in ascending and descending alpine routes, and strength endurance is required in all areas of the legs and hips.  Technical climbing will require a solid foundation in upper body strength training as well. Training primarily with free weights will give you the functional, alpine-specific strength that will help you most in the mountains. In early phases of strength conditioning, focus on building a foundation for harder workouts, starting with 2-3 sets of each exercise for 8-10 repetitions. As you continue to train, you will shift focus to building strength through lower repetitions (5-8) to build maximum strength. Finally for the last 4-6 weeks before your trip start increasing the repetitions to build strength endurance and mental and physical stamina; each phase varies the weight used, repetitions completed, number of sets, and rest interval.  Most important in strength training is to be sure you maintain proper form at all times in order to prevent injury or strain.

Cardiovascular training – Activities you can add several times per week to supplement your alpine-specific pack carrying training include spinal-loading exercises such as trail running, walking on an inclined treadmill, doing stair stepping or stepmill training, working on an elliptical machine, or walking up and down hills or stairs with a weighted pack.  In early season, include at least 3-4 sessions of 30-45 minutes of sustained activity at a moderate intensity, and gradually build to 4-5 aerobic sessions of sustained effort for an hour or more as you approach your trip. If you will be at high altitude for portions of your trip, include interval training in your weekly program. To do this, find a steep hill or sets of stairs that will allow you to climb steadily for several minutes. Push as hard as you can while you go up, then recover coming down, and repeat for anywhere from 30-45 minutes.  For hill walks, add weight to your pack on a regular basis until you can carry slightly more than your target pack weight (referred to as over-weight training) the whole time. Participate in as many hikes or climbs that take you above 8,000’ as you possibly can, in order to learn how your body responds to high altitude.

This training information brought to you by KL Adventure conditioning partner, Body Results. For more conditioning information, products and services and special pricing for KLA’s clients go to www.bodyresults.com/kla

Code	From	To	Status	Price
Ojos del Salado & Aconcagua 28 Days
KLE012-01	Sunday, December 12, 2010	Saturday, January 08, 2011	available	7,0005,990
KLE012-02	Sunday, December 19, 2010	Saturday, January 15, 2011	available	7,0005,990