Climb The Aconcagua Polish Glacier Traverse Route
- Description
- Details
- Equipment
- Training
- Schedule & Rates
- Photos
Aconcagua Polish Traverse with Porters
Tour Description
This spectacular ascent of Mt Aconcagua (6,962m / 22,835 ft) by way of the Vacas Valley, follows the Polish Glacier Traverse route. During the three day trek to the Plaza Argentina base camp (4,200m / 13,944 ft) we will see a variety of native flora, and fauna which includes guanacos, red foxes, condors, and hawk eagles in a superb high Andes setting. From base camp, the track continues north up the Relincho Valley towards an enormous frontal moraine situated between a rocky buttress towards the south and the side of Mt Ameguino, and on to the plateau on which Camp 1 (4,900m/ 16,076 ft) is situated.
The route then zigzags up a steep slope to the base of the Polish Glacier (5,850), where Camp 2 nestles in the moraine. The views are stunning—east towards the Relincho and Vacas Valleys, north to the Cordón de la Ramada, and north-east towards Cerero Tambillo. From this point, the route skirts the lower edge of the glacier to Piedras Blancas camp (6,030m / 19,783 ft) or, alternatively, to the Piedras Negras camp, following a long diagonal known as the False Polish traverse.
From these high camps, this route joins the Normal route in the ascent to the summit, where the awesome experience of standing on the roof on America awaits. The descent is by way of the Normal route through Plaza de Mulas base camp, and out the Horcones Valley. This trip features exceptional views of Mt Aconcagua, particularly along the less traveled ascent trail.
To see a topographic map click here
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Day by day Itinerary
Day 1 Mendoza
You will be picked up at Plumerillos Airport in Mendoza and transferred to our Hotel. After meeting the guides and other members of the group, we’ll make an equipment and gear check, and have a power point presentation on the expedition.
Hotel / Elevation 761 m (2,497 ft)
Day 2 Mendoza - Penitentes. Before leaving Mendoza, we’ll visit the Aconcagua Provincial Park’s permit office to obtain our mandatory, individual climbing permits. Then we’ll drive towards the Park, stopping for lunch in Uspallata. We’ll continue our journey west to the village of Penitentes, situated at the entrance to the Vacas Valley, which gives access to our route. Overnight in Penitentes.
Transfer distance 190 km – 118 miles / Transfer time 2 1/4 hours / Hotel Penitentes / Elevation Min 761 m (2,497 ft) - Max 2,580m – 8,464 ft
Day 3 Penitentes – Pampa de Leña. Aconcagua Express vehicles transfer us to the area known as Punta de Vacas, site of an important Argentinean Army post, beside the Vacas River. Here we begin our trek towards the base of Aconcagua through the Vacas Valley, a greener and less busy path than the Normal route, and wonderfully scenic. After a hike of four to five hours we reach our first camp at Pampa de Leña, a picturesque spot surrounded by rocky walls, situated at 2,800m (9,330ft). Here we’ll join our arrieros (mule drivers) in a delicious barbecue.
Trekking Time – 4-5 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 2,580m (8,464 ft) - Max - 2,800m (9,186 ft)
Day 4 Pampa de Leña – Casa de Piedra. We continue hiking up the Vacas Valley for six to seven hours, reaching Casa de Piedra camp, a green strip of land on the eastern side of the huge Vacas Valley, situated at 3,200m (10,665 ft). We’ll get an excellent view here through the Relinchos Pass up to the Polacos Glacier and the route we’ll take tomorrow.
Trekking Time – 6-7 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 2,800m (9,186 ft) - Max 3,200m (10,665 ft)
Day 5 Casa de Piedra - Plaza Argentina. Leaving the Vacas Valley behind us, we begin to climb up the steep, narrow and marvelously scenic Relinchos Valley to our base camp at Plaza Argentina (4,200m /14,000 ft). This is a demanding seven-hour day during which we’ll climb 1,000 vertical meters (3,280 ft) and cross the Relincho Creek, which can carry a lot of water in the summer and must be forded with care. Along the last stretch of the trail we get a magnificent view of Aconcagua and its north-eastern neighbour, Mt. Ameguino (5,900m / 10,356 ft). At Plaza Argentina base camp our chef will be waiting for us with hot drinks and a delicious dinner. Park Rangers are stationed here and medical services are also available.
Trekking Time – 7 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 3,200m (10,665 ft) - Max 4,200m (14,000 ft)
Day 6 Plaza Argentina base camp. Today is a rest day, essential for an optimal acclimatization. We’ll rest around camp and drink plenty of liquids, allowing our bodies to adapt well to the altitude in readiness for the High Camps and summit day.
Tent / Elevation – 4,200m (14,000 ft)
Day 7 Plaza Argentina base camp – High Camp I - Plaza Argentina base camp. Leaving our arrieros (mule drivers) and the mules at base camp, we’ll make our first day of portage carrying light loads of personal and common gear up to what will be our high Camp I (4,900m / 16,076 ft). Today’s portage—and other days of portage during the Expedition—are essential to achieving an optimal adaptation to the elevation. Climbing up to higher altitudes and descending to lower ones to sleep will be our strategy from now on. If this ascent plan is carried out slowly, it increases the probability of reaching the summit successfully and in a comfortable and safe manner.
Trekking Time – 4 to 6 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,200m (14,000 ft) - Max 4,900m (16,076 ft).
Day 8 Plaza Argentina base camp. Today is a rest day in base camp. We’ll take it easy around camp and drink plenty of liquids.
Tent / Elevation – 4,200m (14,000 ft)
Day 9 Plaza Argentina base camp – High Camp I. Today we climb with our remaining gear for three to five hours, gaining 700 meters (2,296 ft), to reach high Camp I. Our surroundings, in the heart of the central Andes, are truly magnificent.
Trekking Time – 5 hours / Tent / Elevation –Min 4,200m (14,000 ft) - Max 4,900m (16,076 ft)
Day 10 High Camp I – High Camp II - Plaza Argentina base camp. We continue climbing to Camp 2 (5,760m / 18,897) at the foot of the Polish Glacier. This is a stunning ascent as we can see the glacier in its full magnitude as well as the peaks surrounding Aconcagua, Juncal (6,100m / 20,000 ft), Alto de los Leones (5,400m / 17,716 ft), and Mercedario 6,770m / 22,211 ft), the great peaks of the central Andes. We return to Plaza Argentina base camp to rest and recover our energies.
Trekking Time – 6 to 7 hours / Tent / Elevation Min 4,200m (14,000 ft) - Max 5,850m (19,188ft)
Day 11 Plaza Argentina base camp. Today is a necessary rest day in base camp. We’ll hydrate and eat well in our state-of-the-art Plaza Argentina base camp and rest around camp. This will help us make an optimal acclimatization, allowing us to feel more comfortable in the demanding Aconcagua environment
Tent / Elevation – 4,200m (14,000 ft)
Day 12 Plaza Argentina base camp – High Camp I. Today we leave base camp behind us and focus on the summit, carrying what remains of our equipment to High Camp 1. (We will not pass through this valley on our descent route.)
Trekking Time – 5 hours / Tent / Elevation Min 4,200m (14,000 ft) - Max 4,900m (16,076 ft)
Day 13 High Camp I - High Camp II. We continue on to High Camp 2, again with splendid views of the high peaks of the central Andes and the base of the Polish glacier.
Trekking Time – 6 hours / Tent / Elevation Min 4,900m (16,076 ft) - Max 5,850m (19,188)
Day 14 High Camp II. Today will be a rest day in camp. We will take it very easy, drink plenty of fluids to help make us strong and well acclimatized for summit day.
Tent / Elevation - Min 5,850m (19,188)
Day 15 High Camp II - Piedras Blancas Camp or Piedras Negras Camp. Today we make the traverse from Camp 2 at the base of the Polacos (Polish) Glacier towards Piedras Blancas camp (6,030m /19,783 ft). The two traverse routes can be clearly seen from camp. This is the point where our guide decides whether the group will climb to Piedras Negras, a more demanding route, or to Piedras Blancas, where climbers from the north side of the mountain (Normal route) converge for the ascent to the summit.
Trekking Time – 3 to 5 hours / Tent / Elevation - Min 5,850m (19,188) - Max 6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas) - 6,250m / 20,500ft (Piedras Negras)
Day 16, 17 & 18 Piedras Blancas or Piedras Negras Camp – Summit - Piedras Blancas or Piedras Negras Camp. We wait for the best climatic conditions for our final ascent. We enjoy superb views of the upper section of the Aconcagua south face wall, a magnificent sight. Following the emotion of stepping onto the summit of the ‘roof of America’, we’ll take photos beside the emblematic summit cross to record this momentous achievement. We descend to our last high camp.
Trekking Time – 3 to 5 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas) - 6,250m / 20,500ft (Piedras Negras) - Max 6,962m (22,835 ft)
Day 19 Piedras Blancas - Plaza de Mulas. We come down from Piedras Blancas following the Normal route to the Plaza de Mulas Camp, located at 4,200m (13,779 ft), where our Aconcagua Express chef awaits us with a delicious dinner that will help restore our energies. This base camp has showers, satellite telephone, and an exquisite menu especially prepared for our Expedition.
Trekking Time – 12 to 14 hours/ Tent / Elevation – Min 4,300m (14,107 ft) - Max 6,000m / 19,600 ft (Piedras Blancas) - 6,250m / 20,500ft (Piedras Negras)
Day 20 Plaza de Mulas – Mendoza. From Plaza de Mulas, our arrieros (mule drivers) and the mules will help us carry out our gear and equipment. Today is a fairly gentle six to seven-hour hike through Playa Ancha and down the Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes. At the Park Ranger’s Station Aconcagua Express vehicles will be waiting to take us back to the comforts Mendoza. Following a good night’s rest, the Aconcagua Polish Glacier Traverse Route with Porters Expedition comes to an end! Some expedition members may choose to stay in Mendoza to visit this attractive city and its beautiful surroundings, and enjoy superb Argentinean cuisine.
Transfer distance 190 km – 118 miles / Transfer time 2 1/4 hours / Hotel / Elevation – Min 761 m (2,497 ft) - Max 4,300m (14,107 ft)
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Tour Details
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Duration |
20 days |
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Difficulty |
Excellent Physical Shape |
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Departures |
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Expedition cost |
US $ 3.800 person minimum 6 clients. |
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Private Porter |
US $ 700 per person minimum 2 clients |
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Hotel Single Supplement |
US $ 600 per person. |
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Reservation cost |
US $ 700 |
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Balance due payment |
75 days prior departure |
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Space available |
12 climbers |
Service includes
- Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
- Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-3.
- All local organization and supervision by KL Adventure & Aconcagua Express Staff.
- Private transportation included airport pick-up.
- Mendoza airport assistance.
- Two hotel nights in Mendoza, double occupancy with breakfast, at NH Hotel or equivalent.
- One hotel night in Penitentes, double occupancy with half pension.
- All meals during the expedition.
- Full base camp set up dining tent, chair, tables, etc..
- High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain Hardware and Marmot tents, isolate mattress, high camp stoves & Gaz.
- Permanently available hot drinks and biscuits at base Camp tent.
- Mules for carrying individual gear from base camp and back, to a maximum of 20 kg. per person.
- First aid kit, hyperbaric chamber, oxygen bottles, oximeter at our high camps.
- VHF 2mt & BLU HF Radio communication equipment.
- Satellite phone during the entire expedition on a per minute payment basis.
- Porter for group gear (tents) during the entire expedition.
- The Aconcagua, “Summit of America” book, by Mauricio Fernandez.
Service does not include
- All personal climbing equipment gear.
- Aconcagua climbing permit fee.
- Porter for personal gear, except who applied for it.
- Any cost involve in a early or late departure.
- Airport drop off.
- Meals in Mendoza.
- Any drinks (soda, beer or wine) in Mendoza.
- Cancellation, accident and rescue insurance.
- Cash for extra expenses.
- Gratuities.
- Any other service not mentioned above.
Important
- All itineraries are subject to change due to changes in the weather, individual’s acclimatization rates and the guide’s preferences.
- Private Porter to be share between two expedition members carrying 10kg each, service available upon request at additional cost.
- Any departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 6 persons.
Once you get registered, we will send you :
- A detailed list of all the equipment you need.
Aconcagua short equipment list :
-Non detailed version (this is only for “packing your bags”)
-Items marked with ** are available for rent. Items marked with * are available for purchase.
Head:
- **Ski Goggles
- *Light weight Balaclava
- *Warm fleece or wool hat
- *Glacier glasses
- *Extra pair of sunglasses (these don’t need to be glacier glasses)
- Hat or cap with neck protection for sun on the approach days
- High U.V. Buff (Optional)
- Neoprene face mask
Hands:
- Fleece liners
- Gore-Tex ski gloves
- **Mittens
Upper Body:
- (2) Polypropylene top- one medium weight and one expedition weight.
- (2) Fleece jackets or lightweight synthetic insulated jacket.
- (1) If you opt to only use one of the above jackets then you need an insulated vest.
- Ultralight wind jacket (Optional)
- Gore-Tex parka
- **(1)Expedition Down Parka with down hood.
- Long sleeve lightweight cotton type shirt for the hike in.
Lower Body:
- (2)-Polypropylene bottom one lightweight and one expedition weight.
- (1)-One pair of schoeler or nylon pants.
- **Insulated over pants or fleece pants with full side zips
- Lightweight Gore-Tex pants with full side zips
Feet:
- 2 pair of socks for the approach.
- 3 pair of sock combinations (in additition to above)
- Gaiters
- **Down or synthetic booties (optional)
- **Double plastic boots
- Light weight hiking boots, trekking shoes or sneakers
- Sandals or neoprene booties.
Sleeping:
- **Down or synthetic rated –10 degrees F/ -26 degrees C
- Compression sack for sleeping bag
- Thermarest pad with repair kit
Backpacks and other bags:
- **Internal frame Backpack
- *Day pack
- Some medium and large stuff sacks
- 3 heavy-duty plastic bags
- **1 large and 1 extra large duffel bags
- An assortment of Ziploc bags.
Miscellaneous:
- **Trekking poles or ski poles (MANDATORY)
- Bandanna (for sun protection and cleaning glasses etc.)
- Hand warmers (purchased in most outdoor stores)
- Ear plugs (for those windy nights or snoring tent mates)
- Potable aqua (1 bottle)
- (2) Mole foam made by 3M (for treating blisters) (MANDATORY)
- 1 roll of athletic tape (mandatory)
- Knife with built in scissors for cutting mole foam/skin.
- Sunscreen SPF 30 or higher. Consider bringing Zinc oxide if you burn easily.
- Head lamp with extra batteries
- Toiletry items (toothbrush/toothpaste, baby wipes (very usefull), tampons
- 2 Lip balms (chapstick with SPF)
- 2 water bottles (two liters capacity) and 1 one-liter thermos.
- Many people like to have a separate wide mouth bottle only for peeing in. This bottle should be clearly labeled!
- Cup, bowl and spoon.
Climbing:
- Climbing seat harness (Polish Glacier only)
- 1 Locking Carabiner (Polish Glacier only)
- **Ice axe and leash 60-70 cm
- **Crampons
Food:
- 2-3 pounds total and include items you know will look tasty if feeling less than 100% and that you have experimented with in training. Popular choices may include a variety of certain energy bars, energy gels, candies, nuts, dried fruits, rice crispy treats, brownies etc...
Medical:
- Ibuprofen, Motrin or Advil
- Asperin
- Blister kit (athletic tape, mole foam, and 5-6 bandaids)
Optional Items:
- Camera, Paperback book, Pee funnel (for women only), Music
Physical conditioning for your trip with KL Adventure
Whether your trip involves trekking, mountaineering, or technical climbing, your training program should involve the following:
- Alpine-specific training (via hiking with a pack and specific skills development pertaining to your trip)
- Strength training (via free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines)
- Cardiovascular training (via spinal-loading aerobic training)
Alpine specific training - During your training, progressively ramp up your speed, duration (time or mileage), and pack weight of weekly training hikes to give you alpine-specific conditioning that cannot be matched by any other type of training. Hike steep outdoor trails, gradually increasing your pack weight with each outing until you are at your target trip pack weight. A reasonable target for multi-day trips would be to ascend 3,500 feet in a 2-2.5 hour period, or roughly 1,750 vertical feet in an hour, with your target trip pack weight. In early season, you might start out with a 15# pack on hikes that gain up to 1,500’ elevation over 6-8 miles round trip; each hike try increasing the total elevation gain, distance, and/or speed, then begin adding several pounds per trip until you are comfortable with your target trip pack weight. When you can gain 3,500 feet with your target pack weight, start to decrease rest breaks and increase speed. Include overnight trips in your training regimen to get accustomed to successive days of sustained work with little to no recovery time.
Strength training - Training with free weights, a weighted backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines will help you build overall strength, particularly in the core (lower back and abdominals), upper back, and legs. Developing strength in your upper back and shoulders will help you with such tasks as carrying a pack and using ice axe, ice tools or trekking poles effectively. The calves, hips, quads, hamstrings and glutes are all involved in ascending and descending alpine routes, and strength endurance is required in all areas of the legs and hips. Technical climbing will require a solid foundation in upper body strength training as well. Training primarily with free weights will give you the functional, alpine-specific strength that will help you most in the mountains. In early phases of strength conditioning, focus on building a foundation for harder workouts, starting with 2-3 sets of each exercise for 8-10 repetitions. As you continue to train, you will shift focus to building strength through lower repetitions (5-8) to build maximum strength. Finally for the last 4-6 weeks before your trip start increasing the repetitions to build strength endurance and mental and physical stamina; each phase varies the weight used, repetitions completed, number of sets, and rest interval. Most important in strength training is to be sure you maintain proper form at all times in order to prevent injury or strain.
Cardiovascular training – Activities you can add several times per week to supplement your alpine-specific pack carrying training include spinal-loading exercises such as trail running, walking on an inclined treadmill, doing stair stepping or stepmill training, working on an elliptical machine, or walking up and down hills or stairs with a weighted pack. In early season, include at least 3-4 sessions of 30-45 minutes of sustained activity at a moderate intensity, and gradually build to 4-5 aerobic sessions of sustained effort for an hour or more as you approach your trip. If you will be at high altitude for portions of your trip, include interval training in your weekly program. To do this, find a steep hill or sets of stairs that will allow you to climb steadily for several minutes. Push as hard as you can while you go up, then recover coming down, and repeat for anywhere from 30-45 minutes. For hill walks, add weight to your pack on a regular basis until you can carry slightly more than your target pack weight (referred to as over-weight training) the whole time. Participate in as many hikes or climbs that take you above 8,000’ as you possibly can, in order to learn how your body responds to high altitude.
This training information brought to you by KL Adventure conditioning partner, Body Results. For more conditioning information, products and services and special pricing for KLA’s clients go to www.bodyresults.com/kla
| Code | From | To | Status | Price |
| Aconcagua Polish & Traverse Route with Porters 20 Days | ||||
| KLE002-01 | Sunday, November 27, 2011 | Friday, December 16, 2011 | available | 4,3003,800 |
| KLE002-02 | Sunday, December 04, 2011 | Friday, December 23, 2011 | available | 4,3003,800 |
| KLE002-03 | Sunday, December 11, 2011 | Friday, December 30, 2011 | available | 4,3003,800 |
| KLE002-04 | Sunday, December 18, 2011 | Friday, January 06, 2012 | available | 4,3003,800 |
| KLE002-05 | Sunday, January 08, 2012 | Friday, January 27, 2012 | available | 4,3003,800 |
| KLE002-06 | Sunday, January 15, 2012 | Friday, February 03, 2012 | available | 4,3003,800 |
| KLE002-07 | Sunday, January 22, 2012 | Friday, February 10, 2012 | available | 4,3003,800 |
| KLE002-08 | Sunday, January 29, 2012 | Friday, February 17, 2012 | available | 4,3003,800 |
| KLE002-09 | Sunday, February 05, 2012 | Friday, February 24, 2012 | available | 4,3003,800 |
| KLE002-10 | Sunday, February 12, 2012 | Friday, March 02, 2012 | available | 4,3003,800 |
